Incredible India - New Delhi Part 3

Previously in New Delhi Part 2:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/05/incredible-india-new-delhi-part-2.html

There was still one last stop on my New Delhi itinerary - Humayun's Tomb in Hazrat Nizamuddin - a legendary enclave. I had a senior called Humayun, and I was intrigued with this place - Hazrat Nizamuddin, in the middle of New Delhi. 

Humayun's Tomb is also along the Yamuna River - The river that will lead to the banks of the Taj Mahal

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Feeling refreshed, I walked out of the serene Lodhi Garden after a historical visit to Gandhi Smrithi in Part 2.

Adjacent to Lodhi Garden was Khan Market, an uptown square which felt like Clark Quay of Singapore or Sri Hartamas in KL.

  There was a FREE public toilet!

Out of curiosity, I went up Starbucks. There was a security guard at the door, who I presume was there to ensure only customers were allowed in. It was definitely not affordably priced. 

Not a coffee lover, and was already loaded with too much chai (tea), that I ordered a Flapp, which was a mistake

I then went to Hazrat Nizamuddin, to visit Humayun's Tomb, another famous attraction and UNESCO site.

Nizamuddin sounds like a common name in Malaysia. The suburb of Nizamuddin has ferocious history, and one of the last ruled enclave of the Mughal Empire (till the late 1800s'). There was a mystique aura oozing out of this area.

Incredible India - New Delhi Part 2

I visited the main landmarks of Delhi - Red Fort and Jama Masjid in Day 1:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/04/incredible-india-new-delhi-part-1.html

Those were the touristy stuffs that you have to see. 

I had also allocated 2 full days to visit a friend, and take casual stroll around this historical city. Taking the Delhi Metro is recommended. It's clean, convenient and efficient. 

The first stop was India Gate.

Rajpat, or King's Way during the colonial days. 

India Gate (left) was to commemorate WWI, while the Secretariat Building (right) was where the British ruled from. 

Walking along the Rajpat from India Gate, you would reach the Secretariat Buildings, the government headquarters, situated on top of Raisina Hill. For 20 rupees, a Tuk-Tuk will safe you from walking 30 minutes.

The Secretariat Buildings - The center of British Raj

 Prime Minister's office (behind the Jaipur Pillar) - No entry permitted

However, away from the glamour and splendour, reality was still stark.

Sorting out rubbish

Luang Prabang, Laos (December 2012)

This is a retro-post from December 2012. It's always nice looking back at some of the adventures in the past. You feel thankful and blessed. 

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I first read about Luang Prabang in Laos in 2011. That article rated Luang Prabang in Laos, Angkor Wat in Cambodia, and Bagan in Burma as the 3 ancient, sacred / ancient Buddhist sites in South East Asia. Thailand is not on the list.

I've been to both the latter sites, which leaves Luang Prabang the elusive one out.

I was determined to get there and complete the trilogy. 

So when AirAsia came in with a return ticket offer of RM 140.00, I swoop up a 3D3N trip round ticket. Those were days were I started traveling solo. It was difficult to match everyone's timing. 

I was later joined by my cousin, and my nephew, who had just completed his SPM.

The uncles bringing the nephew to see how other people live.

Having visited all 10 South East Asian countries - Laos has the slowest pace of life, ever (Picture taken on the Arc of Triumph, Vientiane)

A mini-version of the original in Paris

Incredible India - New Delhi Part 1

Previously, I was in Jaipur:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/04/incredible-india-jaipur-part-2.html

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I think deep within every traveler's heart, there will always be a faraway and out-of-reach destination, for almost eternal, that we did not quite make it. Be it because of budget, timing or will power. We normally console ourselves about the drawbacks and risks involved, place-holder-ing it somewhere in the future. 

I have been telling everyone that I want to take Open Water diving license for about a decade...

The recent global lock-down (or lock-up) is likely to cut down global travel for at least 2-3 years, as organizations discover the effectiveness of technology, telecommuting and virtual meetings. I think there will be a significant reduction in international travel. 

~~~

For more than a decade, I placed New Delhi in my to-visit list. I have long read the adventures, history and tradition of the capital of India - Of course, the reviews are bipolar. I had a 300-page Lonely Planet (India), bought from a roadside stall in Cambodia. 

So, I am glad I made this spontaneous trip during the final weeks of 2019 - We all know what happened next, to the world. 

We only live life once, and you better do things that you want to do, fast

The last post saw me hop on the 5.50pm train from Jaipur, heading back to New Delhi. I was back in the 1st class carriage, and an incredible dinner was served.

Appetizer was perfect, especially the popcorn (right) 

I enjoyed the tomato puree with bread sticks too. Warm food/soup is welcomed during winter

Main course was perfect - Served right from the oven (I cleared everything)

I arrived at New Delhi Railway Station (NDRS) at around 11pm. Being my first port of call in Delhi, and after spending almost a whole night wandering around this railway station at 8 degrees Celsius on Day 1, I was quite familiar with this place.

As usual the railway station was full of energy, full of people

Incredible India - Jaipur Part 2

I had a long day yesterday, visiting the Amber Fort and hiking up the 'Great Wall':

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/01/incredible-india-jaipur-part-1.html

However, I didn't have the best night of sleep. I would conclude that I had too much of Chai. Breakfast, lunch and dinner...

Today was my last day in Jaipur, as I would catch the 6pm train back to New Delhi. Having 2 full days in Jaipur, I explored the far-away sites yesterday, and left the Old Town (Pink City) for today. 

Hawa Mahal (right) and Jaipur Old Town

I started the day with the same challenge - Breakfast. I went for McDonald's on MI Road, because there were no shops open. To be honest, I would only go for fast-food as a last resort. Needless to say, at 9am, I was the only customer, but still took the staffs 25 minutes to fry the hashbrown and prepare the chicken burger. The staffs were professional, and took cleanliness very seriously. 

I recently bought KFC in Singapore, and had to wait for 25 minutes, but there was a long queue. 

It was a nice breakfast, and for a change, not very spicy

Today, the target is to visit the places on the combo-ticket bought at Amber Fort yesterday. 

If you complete these 8 sites in 2 days, you either have strong legs, or you rushed through the sites and most likely forget everything the next morning

I spent Day 1 only at Amber Fort, while today, I went for #5, #2, #8 and lastly #3. As a traveler, I prefer to take my own sweet time wandering around sites and imagining myself traveling back in time. The last thing I'll ever do is rushing around, blindly taking photos, and visiting for the sake of visiting.

In fact, I don't do things for the sake of doing it.

I started off taking the Pink City walking tour by Lonely Planet.

Pink City guide - How many of us still hold a guidebook rather than a GPS?

The feeling of getting lost in a historical city is great. You sometimes discover unexpected sites and occurrence.

Incredible India - Jaipur Part 1

I was previously in Agra:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/01/incredible-india-agra-part-2.html

The route of Delhi – Agra – Jaipur is known as the golden triangle, one of the most popular travel sequences for (rookie) travelers. So it was natural that Jaipur was the next stop after an exhilarating visit to Agra.     

Jaipur's Amber Palace - Where the Maharajas stayed since the 1600s

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From Agra, I took the non-AC class train from Agra Fort Station to Jaipur, because AC class was fully booked. Unlike the Bhopal-Shatabdi train from New Delhi to Agra, the train ride promised to be more down-to-earth, and a new experience. I braced for it, but really, it was a pleasant ride.

In the non-AC class train, each seat accommodates 3 people, and you would see passengers standing along the way. These are the folks on the Non-Reserved tickets (or ‘free sitting’ ticket), whom, if the train is too full, would most likely sit on top of the train.

(No I am just joking)

The train ride took around 5 hours, and I was lucky to get the window seat, which means I kept the same seat throughout the journey, while enjoying the blissful sceneries. Throughout the journey, I had 2 different passengers sitting beside me, and shared some interesting and pleasant conversations. The first man was a furniture seller from Agra, who was going to some holy-site near the Pakistan border for prayers with his family. He showed me furniture catalogues on his phone.

The countryside was neat, clean and tidy - Humans seem to be the problem on this planet

I highly suspected the 2^nd passenger not being a true commerce student as he stated. He shared a photo of his brother, supposedly one of the winners of the ‘Longest Beard’ competition. 

The experience was pleasant to be honest

I arrived in Jaipur, after sunset, to a city full of lights. It was Christmas eve, and the hostel was having some performance/party.
Jaipur is the capital of the state of Rajasthan, also known as the ‘Land of Kings’. The roads were wider than at Agra, and the city is very well-planned. In fact, it is one of the most well-planned cities in (modern) India. Jaipur is also known as the ‘Pink City’, as the buildings in the city center were all painted in Pink (but it all looked like orange to me), by a Maharaja to welcome the King of England back in the 1800s.

Incredible India - Agra Part 2

Previously, I made my way to Agra from New Delhi:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/01/incredible-india-agra-part-1.html

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Taj Mahal - One of the 7 wonders of the world. Who hasn’t heard about it?

First impression was - Wow~ Thank goodness I made this trip!

I am a slow pacer, and prefer to take my visits slowly, rather than bulldozing my way through attractions, I practically freed up the whole day for this world famous site. Staying literally 100m away from the East Gate (Sheela Hotel) was a plus.

Being so close to the mosque adjacent to Taj Mahal meant I was woken-up by the mosque around 5.30am for ‘Imsak’ or Fajr prayers. There was a surreal and serene feeling – Calmness. Maybe it felt like Malaysia.

All religions teach us to do good and be kind to others. What goes around comes around.

The Taj is famous for sunrise and sunset, but it was winter, and mornings were shrouded in mist and fog. So I decided that catching sunrise would be futile and instead, planned to catch sunset. I would enter the site only after a late lunch.  

Agra is in Uttar Pradesh, one of the more serious parts of India hit by demonstrations. The government decided to cut mobile internet connection. Undeterred, I started my day when the fog cleared partially and the temperature rose slightly above 10 degrees, around 9am. In a way, getting around based on a guidebook and offline map was interesting. From the East Gate, I walked north towards the Yamuna River. It was early, and the further I walked, the quieter it got. There was a colony of monkeys though. 

Must have made the Taj Mahal complex home for generations

I walked along the walls of the Taj Mahal complex to my left, made from huge red impressive sandstones. To my right was a small village, bushes and wilderness.

The Yamuna River is around 1300km long, merges with the River Ganges and originates from the Lower Himalayas. Wikipedia describes this river and is worth a read at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamuna. According to this article, in 1909, Yamuna was clear blue but like most rivers today, it is not the cleanest. The Indian government is trying their best to conserve the river though. The Yamuna River flows past the Taj Mahal to the north, and opposite the river, is the Mehtab Bagh (Mehtab garden), supposedly the site of a black Taj, the final resting place for Shah Jahan.

The Yamuna River, and Mehtab Bagh on the opposite side

Mehtab Bagh, supposedly a beautiful garden during Shahjahan’s time in the 16^th century. Today, what is left is a barren land, with visible trash and litter. The British had also altered the landscape to make it more ‘English’, while the Yamuna River had also moved eastward.

Turning the corner to the left, I instantly spotted the unmistakable Taj Mahal, and it was gorgeous. It was still early, and the fog and mist gave it a mystical feel. It looked like what we always see on the internet or in advertisements.

No it's not a wallpaper

Incredible India - Agra Part 1

My family was worried that I would not have enough to eat; my colleagues (from India) thought I lost my mind and was looking for trouble, while my friends showed concern. In short, everyone I met gave me survival tips and safety advice (though most hadn’t have an Indian visa before). I took everything politely, undeterred, but deep down, I was confident. This was the internet age, where information is abundant, and I have seen female friends travel solo in India. 

To make matters slightly more complicated, there were life threatening protests going around India due to the new Citizens’ Amendment Act (CAA). Surely it wasn't the best time to visit India, alone.

8 years in my drawer - Better late than never

For ALL the hype, I came back absolutely fine – no mishaps, accidents or unpleasant experience. Of course, I followed all the guidelines, such as NEVER trust and talk to strangers and touts, only drink water which are bottled (check the caps!), don't show off any valuable (dress as ordinary as possible) and don’t risk any food you are not confident. A certain level of experience / knowledge (more of common sense) is definitely needed. I will draft a survival guide / checklist later.

So, never let the naysayers and ‘experts’ influence you. People could try to influence you, but ultimately, you determine if you get influenced. I was excited and looked forward to this trip. 

I guess sometimes in life, when you expect the worst, or don’t expect anything at all, you receive unexpected returns. Traveling solo in India exceeded all my expectations, and would rate it among the best I have done – Not because there were gardens and fountains everywhere, but the sheer breadth and depth of history, culture and tradition. You get the cleanest and most serene of places, but turning the corner, you see cows scavenging food in rubbish dumps. It reminded me to be thankful with what I have, and to strive to make the world a better place.

Traveling is like speaking. If you don’t think you could find suitable travel mates, it is absolutely fine to go solo, and I have seen many solo travelers in India. Likewise, if you have nothing good to say, just keep quiet.

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Similar to my previous trips to Nepal, before departure, I went around soliciting unused and old clothes to donate. This time, I had 2 full bags (18Kg) from the family. I would politely give it to one the cleaners at the Metro station, with sincerity and respect. Some may take it offensively.

The clothes to be donated had checked-in service, while my own belongings cramp inside the overhead cabin compartment. 

It was pleasant to see my check-in bags get checked in

I arrived in New Delhi from KL at around 10pm, expecting swamps of people, noise and chaos. In contrary, Indira Gandhi International Airport, New Delhi turned out to be a world class airport – clean, efficient and comfortable. By 11pm, I was already on the modern and spacious Airport Metro, heading directly into central New Delhi – New Delhi Train Station (NDTS). 

I had good samaritans who helped with the bags to the Airport Metro

Delhi has 3 major train stations, each serving different regions. As described in https://wikitravel.org/en/Delhi NDTS was quite confusing for first timers and full of touts. The key was to NEVER LEAVE THE TRAIN STATION with a stranger, which I almost did. I was looking for the Tourist Ticket counter, when a ‘kind-hearted’ local pointed to some shops outside the station, Paharganj side. As I was about to follow this folk out the station, instinct kicked-in, and I walked straight back into the station, ignoring whatever he tried to say. Upon turning back, I spotted the ‘Enquiry Counter’. In subsequent encounters with touts or strangers, I will give a smile, and act that I don’t understand English. The 'palm-sign' and 'head-shaking' action were also quite effective in dispelling unwanted chats.

It was a winter night, and temperature dipped below 8 degrees. I spotted at least 2 CCTVs above my head and instantly felt safe in the not so safe-looking ‘Enquiry Counter’ (outside Platform No.1). There were a few homeless folks lying around, wrapped only in blankets.

I felt safe seeing the CCTVs above

I was looking to get on the earliest train to Agra, my first destination. I would leave exploring Delhi to the end of this trip, and had earmarked the 6.00am Bhopal-Shatabdi No. 12002 train. In true Indian logic (or sometimes not very logical), I wasn’t allowed to buy the ticket as it was still 11.30pm. I could only buy the ticket at the counter at around 1.30am. In India, nothing is certain, everything is super dynamic, and I needed to get use to the way of life here. I didn’t even considered booking any train tickets online. I half suspect my itinerary may change like the clouds. I merely booked my lodging for all the nights via www.booking.com, which did not cost a lot. I was prepared for any change of plans.

While I was waiting, 3 young people, who were college students walked in – Ajit, Aspram and Nisha. The 2 guys were in shorts, so you could tell they weren't from Delhi. While Nisha, was in thick downjacket and gloves. They were from students Kerala, and were looking for the cheapest alternative to travel to Old Delhi Train Station to catch a train to Ladakh, a beautiful Himalayan village in the north. I guess fellow travelers are always a nice chat, and a good source of exchanging information.    

At 1.30am, I (fortunately) got my train ticket at the counter, while my friends from Kerala left the station for a dormitory to spend the night. The next train to Ladakh was at noon tomorrow.

I took the best class I could find, and it costs 935 Rupees (SGD 1 = Rp. 50). I have long heard of the India Railways, and was eager to experience it. Tired, cold but excited, I went to the Executive Lounge near Platform No.16 to spend the remaining 4 hours (Rp. 100 per hour). Finally, some warmth, quietness and some sleep, after a long day.    

Buying train tickets felt like an accomplishment

Trains in India are timely (if they are, you should be at the platform early), and after some initial confusion of how to identify the correct car, I settled into my comfortable seat. The train ride was pleasant, with newspapers and breakfast. One of my strength is the ability to doze off in any mode of transport, and I had some sleep after breakfast.

Train food - Breakfast actually quite good

Difference between Training and Learning

Major Dr. Preba told us the story of Mahendra Prasad and Rajendra Prasad, of ancient India.

Mahendra Prasad was the Prime Minister of a Maharaja (King) in a faraway kingdom, and was an expert in interpreting dreams. One day, the Maharaja dreamt that he lost all his hair, and asked Mahendra to interpret the dream. Being skilled and honest, Mahendra explained that it was a sign that the queen may pass-away pretty soon. The Maharaja was super angry, and ordered Mahendra to be executed.

Rajendra Prasad was Mahendra’s younger brother and long time assistant. Being from a family of advisers, he replaced Mahedra as the Prime Minister…

After awhile, the Maharaja again dreamt that he lost all his hair, and summoned Rajendra to interpret his dream.

Rajendra remembered the fate of his elder brother. He calmly explained that the Maharaja will live very very long, longer than the queen…

He survived...

Knowledge is IQ, but presentation is EQ.

Few days back I attended a half-day seminar by Major Dr. Prebagaran (R) (LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/drpraba/?originalSubdomain=my), organized by IEM JB, on Rescuing Troubled Projects. The seminar didn't dwell much into project management, but it was inspiring, a much needed booster in life. 

I thought I should share what I learned. 

¬¬¬

What is learning? How do you define learning? What is training?

As newbies at the workplace, we always lament the lack of training. Nowadays everyone, organizations, including the government is allocating large amount of budget for training or re-training. Some would demand you to train on-the-job. But do people really learn? How do you train someone effectively?

Learning brings change in behavior, and if there's no changes, learning did not happen - You may attend training, but there may not be learning. At the end, you didn't acquire knowledge that you WOULD use – You merely acquired attendance certificate. 

Training is like seeds. Training is when you have the best Roselle flower seeds, and plant it in your backyard. Afterwards, you still need to water it, add fertilizer, trim and tidy up the garden. If not, it'll become dried seeds. Most of the time, when things don't go right, we blame the seeds. It’s always someone else’s fault… We should never forget to look ourselves in the mirror.  

In pursue of training and education, we see many institutions being formed – colleges, universities, private schools, training centers… Training is big business. At the end, some institutions give education, but some give degrees. Most of the time, it's all up to the student.

Practice the Art of Happiness

While I ate Nasi Goreng Ibunda (the 2nd time in 3 evenings), and a bowl of Mushroom soup, I came across this article in the 'Classified' Section of the News Straits Times (a paper I don't normally read) - Practice the Art of Happiness, by Dr. Victor SL Tan.

I found it extremely enlightening, and useful as a principle in life.

Dr. Tan first states that a happy workplace is a productive and creative workplace. When a person is happy, he/she is definitely more productive, motivated and positive. He/she could influence the rest to be happy too. So it looks imperative that leaders try to build a 'happy' workplace.

In the January-February 2012 issue of Harvard Business magazine, Shawn Achor says "success doesn't make you happy so much as happiness makes you more successful". Happiness is a state of mind.

Abraham Lincoln said: "Most folks are as happy as they made up theirs minds to be".

In short, Dr. Tan summed up the 4 proven ways to be happy:

1. Appreciate the blessings you have. 

Why focus on the don't haves or weaknesses all the time? If you have health, loved ones, jobs, belongings, occasional vacations.... Too often, we take for granted what we have until we lose them. What you don't appreciate, depreciates.

Maybe the next time WE start complaining, think twice.

2. Exorcise the unpleasant

Life is not a bed of roses. Unpleasant things will definitely happen in life. Too many of us are preoccupied with the misfortunes of yesteryears, which they cannot do anything about.

Professor William James said: "Acceptance of what has happened is the first step to overcome". The key to happiness is to exorcise our unpleasant past and exercise appreciation of the present, to help us create a better tomorrow.