My family was worried that I would not have enough to eat;
my colleagues (from India) thought I lost my mind and was looking for
trouble, while my friends showed concern. In short, everyone I met gave me survival tips and safety advice (though most hadn’t have an Indian visa
before). I took everything politely, undeterred, but deep down, I was confident. This was
the internet age, where information is abundant, and I have seen female friends
travel solo in India.
To make matters slightly more complicated, there were life threatening protests going around India due to the new Citizens’ Amendment Act (CAA). Surely it wasn't the best time to visit India, alone.
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| 8 years in my drawer - Better late than never |
For ALL the hype, I came back absolutely fine – no mishaps, accidents or unpleasant
experience. Of course, I followed all the guidelines, such as NEVER trust and talk
to strangers and touts, only drink water which are bottled (check the caps!), don't show off any valuable (dress as ordinary as possible) and don’t risk any food you are not confident. A certain level of experience /
knowledge (more of common sense) is definitely needed. I will draft a survival
guide / checklist later.
So, never let the naysayers and ‘experts’ influence you. People could try to influence you, but ultimately, you determine if you get influenced. I was excited and looked forward to this trip.
I guess sometimes in life, when you expect the worst, or
don’t expect anything at all, you receive unexpected returns. Traveling solo in
India exceeded all my expectations, and would rate it among the best I have done
– Not because there were gardens and fountains everywhere, but the sheer
breadth and depth of history, culture and tradition. You get the cleanest and
most serene of places, but turning the corner, you see cows scavenging food in
rubbish dumps. It reminded me to be thankful with what I have, and to strive to
make the world a better place.
Traveling is like speaking. If you don’t think you could
find suitable travel mates, it is absolutely fine to go solo, and I have seen
many solo travelers in India. Likewise, if you have nothing good to say, just
keep quiet.
~~~
Similar to my previous trips to Nepal, before departure, I went around soliciting unused and old
clothes to donate. This time, I had 2 full bags (18Kg) from the family. I would
politely give it to one the cleaners at the Metro station, with sincerity and
respect. Some may take it offensively.
The clothes to be
donated had checked-in service, while my own belongings cramp inside the
overhead cabin compartment.
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| It was pleasant to see my check-in bags get checked in |
I
arrived in New Delhi from KL at around 10pm, expecting swamps of people, noise and chaos. In contrary, Indira Gandhi International Airport, New Delhi turned
out to be a world class airport – clean, efficient and comfortable. By 11pm, I was
already on the modern and spacious Airport Metro, heading directly into
central New Delhi – New Delhi Train Station (NDTS).
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| I had good samaritans who helped with the bags to the Airport Metro |
Delhi has 3 major train stations, each serving different
regions. As described in
https://wikitravel.org/en/Delhi
NDTS was quite confusing for first timers and full of touts. The key was to
NEVER LEAVE THE TRAIN STATION with a stranger, which I almost did. I was looking for the Tourist Ticket counter, when a ‘kind-hearted’ local pointed to
some shops outside the station, Paharganj side. As I was about to follow this folk out the
station, instinct kicked-in, and I walked straight back into the station,
ignoring whatever he tried to say. Upon turning back, I spotted the ‘Enquiry
Counter’. In subsequent encounters with touts or strangers, I will give a smile, and act
that I don’t understand English. The 'palm-sign' and 'head-shaking' action were also quite effective in dispelling unwanted chats.
It was a winter night, and temperature dipped below 8 degrees. I spotted at least 2 CCTVs above my head and instantly felt safe in the not so safe-looking ‘Enquiry Counter’ (outside Platform No.1). There were a few homeless folks lying
around, wrapped only in blankets.
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| I felt safe seeing the CCTVs above |
I was looking to get on the earliest train to Agra, my first destination. I would leave exploring Delhi to the end of this trip, and had earmarked the 6.00am Bhopal-Shatabdi No. 12002 train. In true Indian logic (or sometimes not very logical), I wasn’t allowed to buy the ticket as it was still 11.30pm. I could only buy the ticket at the counter at around 1.30am. In India, nothing is certain, everything is super dynamic, and I needed to get use to the way of life here. I didn’t even considered booking any train tickets online. I half suspect my itinerary may change like the clouds. I merely booked my lodging for all the nights via
www.booking.com, which did not cost a lot. I was prepared for any change of plans.
While I was waiting, 3 young people, who were college students
walked in – Ajit, Aspram and Nisha. The 2 guys were in shorts, so you could tell they weren't from Delhi. While Nisha, was
in thick downjacket and gloves. They were from students Kerala, and were
looking for the cheapest alternative to travel to Old Delhi Train Station to
catch a train to Ladakh, a beautiful Himalayan village in the north. I guess
fellow travelers are always a nice chat, and a good source of exchanging
information.
At 1.30am, I (fortunately) got my train ticket at the
counter, while my friends from Kerala left the station for a dormitory to spend
the night. The next train to Ladakh was at noon tomorrow.
I took the best class I could find, and it costs 935 Rupees
(SGD 1 = Rp. 50). I have long heard of the India Railways, and was eager to experience it. Tired, cold but excited, I went to the Executive Lounge near Platform No.16 to
spend the remaining 4 hours (Rp. 100 per hour). Finally, some warmth, quietness and some
sleep, after a long day.
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| Buying train tickets felt like an accomplishment |
Trains in India are timely (if they are, you should be at the platform early), and after some initial confusion
of how to identify the correct car, I settled into my comfortable seat. The
train ride was pleasant, with newspapers and breakfast. One of my strength
is the ability to doze off in any mode of transport, and I had some sleep after breakfast.
 |
| Train food - Breakfast actually quite good |
When I walked out at Agra Canton station at around 8.30am, it
was chaotic, not very clean, and the air was not the freshest. I followed the sign
to the ‘Prepaid-taxi’ booth, and took a taxi to Sheela Hotel, located just 100m
away from Taj Mahal’s West Gate (and was a top pick on Lonely Planet). The location
was superb, though the hot water for shower came in a pail, I relished the
shower 'boy-scout' style.
After settling down, I took a Tuk-Tuk to Agra Fort. In
India, nothing is fixed (especially Tuk-tuk prices). The first driver quoted me
Rp.200 for the journey, and as I continued walking, he counter offered Rp.100.
At the Tuk-tuk stand, another driver offered Rp.80, while my original driver,
who had walked alongside me about 100 meters countered Rp.50. Suddenly, another
driver shouted Rp.40… I was tempted, but decided to stick to Rp.50. Though this
is not a big amount for any tourist, you could see the locals hike up the
price as much as possible.
In New Delhi, a Tuk-tuk price (for foreigners) is often
costlier than an Uber/Ola ride, so it is a norm to reject the first offer, bargain hard, or just walk away. Sometimes, it makes life tiring, but this is how it is in India. The irony is, every Tuk-tuk has fare-meters installed but never used. Using
Uber/Ola is so much more comfortable, and less dusty. I lost count on the amount of dirt and dust I inhaled. I will bring face mask next time.
Agra Fort was impressive. Mughal emperors from the 15th century, such as Jahangir, Shah
Jahan and Aurangzeb once ruled from here.
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| It was a defensive masterpiece |
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| These structures will most likely last for another century |
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| Shah Jahan's house |
Having a guide is informative. There are many self-proclaimed government approved guides, and non of them really are. Try getting one only after you entered the fort, as prices dwindle more than
half. I hired a random local guide and though he was quite good, I had most
information from my guidebook and tailing some other larger tour groups. I paid
him Rp.200 for an hour. At the entrance, the price was Rp.400.
 |
| Can you even see the Taj Mahal? |
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| Precious stones everywhere, and you could see the depth from the ones removed |
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| I don't think it was peak tourist season |
Shah Jahan's son - Aurangzeb took power after murdering his elder brothers, and locked his father Shah Jahan here. Shah Jahan was the emperor who build the Taj Mahal to commemorate his
favourite wife - Mumtaz Mahal, and spent his last days seeing Tah Mahal from Agra Fort.
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| Shah Jahan spent his last days seeing what he built |
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| The pollution gave a mystical feel |
I then went to Agra Fort Train Station to book my tickets from
Agra to Jaipur, in 2 days. It was a different train station then the one I arrived from (Agra Canton Station). Buying train tickets over the counter requires the
buyer to fill up a form (and you just write the important details only). There are Reserved and Unreserved counters, with several train classes. Generally, you are at the mercy of the ticket officer, so always
remember to be polite and respectful. People may cut queue, and you couldn’t do
much, and have to depend on the officer for ‘justice’. Always try to get your tickets at the Reserved Ticket Counter. You really don't want to sit on top of a train (Unreserved tickets).
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| I took 3 train-rides throughout the week, and filled 3 of these forms each time (and still don't know the reason) |
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| Stray dogs seems to be everywhere |
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| Thali for lunch - Shree Ram Restaurant near Agra Fort |
I learned that north Indians prefer more wheat (roti, naan) while south Indians prefer rice.
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| I was recommended this shop by the shop owner whom I bought a pair of slippers from - It was fully packed |
Dinner was at Joney's Place.
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| Anywhere that has Air-conditioning (AC) is considered a posh place |
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| Briyani Chicken with Masala Chai tea - Indian way |
Food was good, and I survived the first day.
Up next, a day visiting the Taj Mahal:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/01/incredible-india-agra-part-2.html
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