From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 3 - Namche Bazaar (Acclimatization Day)

This is a continuation from:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/06/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-2.html

17 May 2018, Wednesday

Acclimatization day at Namche Bazaar (3440m). Hiking to Syangboche (3800m) and return

Trek time: 4 hours (average hike)

I think most of the team didn't sleep well last night. It was probably the most difficult night of my whole trek. At 3500m, the body took longer to adapt. While sleeping, I had a slight 'fatigue headache', and woke up around 3 times for the toilet.

In fact, I woke up at around 5am, feeling quite hungry. By 7am, which was breakfast time, Namche was 0 degrees Celsius, and was shrouded in thick fog. Today was suppose to be a 'rest day', for us to acclimatize. It's no way a 'sleeping day', but a day we trek to a higher altitude, and drop back. Acclimatization was vital, as it prevents and minimizes altitude sickness, which could ruin the entire trekking experience. 

I was particularly glad when Henry said that the hike to Syangboche will only start at 11am due to fog. I quickly retreated into my warm sleeping-bag for a nice nap from 9am to 10.30am after breakfast. 

The most comfortable place in the Himalayas

I felt much better after the nap. We duly gathered and started our hike at 11am, but the fog never cleared. 

Namche Bazaar, one of the most famous village in the Himalayas 

According to Henry, all the shop owners here own properties in Kathmandu, and are considered rich people.

We were ready to 'acclimatize'

It was an 'acclimatization hike', so we traveled lightly. Still, it was quite a steep hike, as we did 200m of vertical ascend.

Into the clouds

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 2 - Phakding - Namche Bazaar

This is a continuation from the last post:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/06/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-1.html

16 May 2018, Tuesday

Phakding (2610m) - Namche Bazaar (3440m)

Trek time: 6 hours (average)

I woke at at around 5am, without the alarm clock. The sky would be filled with light in an hour. For the next 2 weeks, I would sleep in my down-jacket and sleeping bag, supplied by my tour company. The sleeping bag was especially good, as it is designed for -20C. 

We all got ready with our backpacks (for our porters, who were fantastic throughout) by 7am for breakfast, and by 8am, we started our treks. I would carry my downjacket with me during my treks, mostly hanging it on my daypack. I basically wore 2 layers of synthetic fabric. My daypack was around 8kg, as I prefer to bring my essentials with me, e.g. my camera, phone charger, documents, cash, power banks, dairy, medicine (which thankfully I didn't touch) and etc. In other words, I could basically leave Nepal with my daypack without feeling lost.

My breakfast was normally toasts and boiled eggs

As we climb, the scenery became more breathtaking

2.5 hours into the hike, we reached the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park, where we were required to register.

A World Heritage site

Park entrance, not the most spectacular

Had also started using my walking poles, in order to preserve my knees for the next 10 days. I was also interested to work my biceps

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 1 - Kathmandu - Lukla - Phakding

This is a continuation from the last post:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/06/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-0.html 

15 May 2018, Tuesday

Kathmandu (1400m) - Lukla (2810) - Phakding (2610m)

Helicopter ride Kathmandu - Lukla: 45 minutes (Additional US$200)

Lukla - Phakding: 3.5 hours (Mostly downhill trek, manageable)



After spending an unwanted night in Kathmandu, we were punctual and gathered at the hotel lobby at 6.00am, as Ryan, fast becoming our team leader, insisted. Our guides (Henry and Din) nonchalantly arrive at 6.30am. There wasn't any urgency for Henry and Din, as they seemed chilled and relaxed, presumably confident that we will reach Lukla. Most of my team were pumped-up, and a bit anxious.

There were already disquiet against our guide, on why we didn't tried harder to fly into Lukla the previous day. The 3 American girls who were on our cancelled Sita Air flight managed to get themselves into Lukla the previous evening, as helicopters continued to fly into Lukla even after we left the airport at 5pm. However, it seems their baggage were delayed. I do not know how much they paid for their ride though.

I am actually with Henry on the decision to not fly into Lukla on Monday evening, rashly. He was ultimately responsible to get the 8 of us, plus Din and himself to Lukla, together with all our belongings. He was also answerable to the tour company and his boss, who  was definitely responsible to source for 2 helicopters for the 10 of us. There was no point sending half of us to Lukla, or arriving there without our guides. The team needs to stick together. We may lose a day of acclimatization, but that was not the worst case scenario, as we had rest 2 days (at Namche and Dingboche).

A lesson learned is that for EBC, try travel in groups of 2 or 4. I met 3 groups of Malaysians along the way, who were in groups of 4. I would say a team of 4 with 1 guide and 2 porters is the optimum combination.

I noticed the calmness of Kathmandu Airport on that Tuesday. There were less people, tourists and shorter queues. I think because of schedule and leave application from their day jobs, hikers would fly into Kathmandu on the weekend, rest for a day and head to the mountains on Monday. We were told 2 helicopters were booked for us, at 7am, and we were 8th in the queue. It costs US$200/pax, while Sita Air will refund US$177 for the cancelled flight the previous day. I kept the cancelled flight ticket to claim for 'Travel Delay'. Maybe I was the only one who misunderstood the arrangement. I thought it was agreed that the helicopter ride was US$200, and that we will just top-up US$23 with our flight refund of US$177. It was a good deal. We also insisted that the tour company refund us the US$177 before we would pay for the helicopter ride.

However, when we completed the trek, and got back to Kathmandu 2 weeks later, we were told to pay up US$200 for the helicopter ride. It was then that all hell broke lose. At the end, we didn't pay anything, while the tour company actually compensated us US$150 each for hardships, anxiety and negligence. I will reserve this epic negotiation for the right occasion.

It was a sign that not all words can be taken seriously in Nepal. There seem to be a lack of credibility in people, or maybe it's just because situation changes within a blink of an eye. NO one seems to know anything, or could give any promise. I realized there was no use pressuring Henry, as he couldn't make any decisions. I picked up my phone, and called the tour company's director - Jay, who I had knew since the climb to Annapurna Base Camp 5 years ago. He promised to source for the 2 helicopters we desperately needed. So there you go, a difference in statements between Henry and Jay, with one saying a chopper was booked, and one saying he is still finding.

As I sat waiting in the airport lobby, I remember seeing a ray of sunlight from afar, through the boarding gate and waiting room windows, directly from the runways. Today will be a beautiful day, and we'll get into Lukla, I told myself.

Somehow or rather, like in any occasion in Nepal, Jay 'pulled strings' and it worked, we were 'checked-in' for our helicopter flight at 11.30am.

Weighing our luggage bags (10 kg each)

IEM Logbook Training Scheme

When I first started my career as a ‘young engineer’ (my boss always called us), I had fantastic bosses and colleagues, who provided a conducive working and learning environment.

My friends and I received professional and valuable exposures and training, particularly in the power generation industry. Along the way, I was extremely fortunate to meet resourceful and experienced mentors who were kind, patient and generous.

I started working in 2010, and from 2012-2015, I went through IEM Logbook Training Scheme (LBTS) after finding a mentor (interestingly via the IET). My logbook was produced in Words, with my own writings, photos and diagrams.

Printed out and ring-filed, the advantage of doing the logbook in Words is that you could still store it electronically, and extract information when you are doing your Technical Report. Though you may need to do lots of typing, scanning, Words editing. Of course, there’s no point “copy-paste” materials from the internet. Your work has to be “your work”, and your interviewer knows it.

But trust me, it’s a worthwhile effort.

I met my mentor 3 times a year for updates, discussions and got my logbook signed. I’ll have a file for each year, which I duly submit to IEM for endorsement by the LBTS Committee. I attended Professional Interview (PI) in March 2016. My interviewer commented “you are technically good, bu a bit too young (at 29)”.

I did pass, and received my PE in June 2016.

So it’s only natural that I aspire to become a mentor myself. I always felt indebted to the teachers and mentors I had scattered around Malaysia,  Singapore and the UK. I am determined to contribute back to society in a way or another.

Finally, a chance arrived. I attended IEM Logbook Training Scheme – Guidance for Mentors last weekend.

First-ever Mentor training in Johor Bahru

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 0 - Kathmandu to Lukla

It was an out-of-the-blue decision I made at the end of April, as I suddenly found myself with some vacation time to spare. My subsequent training regime of 2 weeks wasn't convincing, clocking 5.5km jogs and 80 push-ups daily. Still, I was fairly confident of my physique. I always maintained my stamina and fitness. Even when I was in Glasgow, I was always at the gym twice a week, regardless of the Glaswegian weather condition.

As for the main concern of altitude sickness, I had done Kota Kinabalu (4095m) and Nepal's Annapurna Base Camp (4190m) fairly comfortably in the past. I didn't need any diamox, paracetamol or any medication for that matter. I sleep well at any altitude (or circumstances), was always a good swimmer, have strong lungs (and I don't smoke). I grew up with the Boys' Brigade, and have sufficient camping and survivor skills.

I knew I had to give Everest Base Camp a go some time in life. It's the holy grail of any avid hiker or mountaineer. I was adamant and would sign up myself if non of my friends could make it in such a tight notice. Monsoon season will start in June, and May was 'supposedly' the best time to hike.

I signed-up for a Everest Base Camp Package (US$1200), and in 2 weeks, I was in busy and buzzing Kathmandu.

14 May 2018, Monday
I met my teammates at Moonlight Hotel lobby at 4.45am, as we gathered. They were the Brits (Neil, Reen, Praks, Dave), Aussies (Ryan, Pat), and US-based Siva. 8 was a good number. We were motivated, excited and hopeful. We were told that our flight to Lukla is at 6.30am.

Lukla, also known as Tenzing-Hillary Airport (built by Sir Edmund Hillary himself) has been one of the most dangerous airports in the world. At an altitude of 2800m, it felt like all adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts should frequent this airport at least once in their life time.

From 6.30am, half awake, we checked-in... We were given our boarding pass and entered the waiting area, and continue waiting.

It looked more like a bus ticket

Slowly, we received news that the weather in Lukla wasn't good. Still we were hopeful. There were talks that helicopter will cost US$500/pax.

Quite a long wait, in the waiting room

Suddenly at around 10am, we were called for boarding!

We buckled up, ate our candies, and received our cotton wool for the ears

We had a trainee pilot on-board, and to be honest, we didn't feel confident. But who cares. We were all set, and we were ready to go!