From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 0 - Kathmandu to Lukla

It was an out-of-the-blue decision I made at the end of April, as I suddenly found myself with some vacation time to spare. My subsequent training regime of 2 weeks wasn't convincing, clocking 5.5km jogs and 80 push-ups daily. Still, I was fairly confident of my physique. I always maintained my stamina and fitness. Even when I was in Glasgow, I was always at the gym twice a week, regardless of the Glaswegian weather condition.

As for the main concern of altitude sickness, I had done Kota Kinabalu (4095m) and Nepal's Annapurna Base Camp (4190m) fairly comfortably in the past. I didn't need any diamox, paracetamol or any medication for that matter. I sleep well at any altitude (or circumstances), was always a good swimmer, have strong lungs (and I don't smoke). I grew up with the Boys' Brigade, and have sufficient camping and survivor skills.

I knew I had to give Everest Base Camp a go some time in life. It's the holy grail of any avid hiker or mountaineer. I was adamant and would sign up myself if non of my friends could make it in such a tight notice. Monsoon season will start in June, and May was 'supposedly' the best time to hike.

I signed-up for a Everest Base Camp Package (US$1200), and in 2 weeks, I was in busy and buzzing Kathmandu.

14 May 2018, Monday
I met my teammates at Moonlight Hotel lobby at 4.45am, as we gathered. They were the Brits (Neil, Reen, Praks, Dave), Aussies (Ryan, Pat), and US-based Siva. 8 was a good number. We were motivated, excited and hopeful. We were told that our flight to Lukla is at 6.30am.

Lukla, also known as Tenzing-Hillary Airport (built by Sir Edmund Hillary himself) has been one of the most dangerous airports in the world. At an altitude of 2800m, it felt like all adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts should frequent this airport at least once in their life time.

From 6.30am, half awake, we checked-in... We were given our boarding pass and entered the waiting area, and continue waiting.

It looked more like a bus ticket

Slowly, we received news that the weather in Lukla wasn't good. Still we were hopeful. There were talks that helicopter will cost US$500/pax.

Quite a long wait, in the waiting room

Suddenly at around 10am, we were called for boarding!

We buckled up, ate our candies, and received our cotton wool for the ears

We had a trainee pilot on-board, and to be honest, we didn't feel confident. But who cares. We were all set, and we were ready to go!                               

           

Out of a sudden, the Captain, after getting some communications, then shut down the engines. And we waited...

Monkeys crossing the tarmac

We continue to wait... It seems Lukla Airport could open and close within minutes, and were basically on 'hot' standby. Once the airport is open, we will fly straight.

After about 30 minutes in the plane, we were told by the Captain that the airport in Lukla was closed. We were instructed to get down the plane, and wait in the shuttle bus. By 2pm, we were back in the waiting room in the airport. We then heard that one of the flights that took off for Lukla returned to Kathmandu. 

Yeti's flights to "Mountain" Cancelled

So did Buddha's

Of the 2 flights that took off that day, only 1 flight made it. The other one turned back, and ours, we merely warmed up the engines.

By 5pm, there were plans of hiring a helicopter, which cost around US$200/pax. My teammates did some running around the helicopter companies, getting quotes. But to fly the 8 of us & 2 guides was a bit tricky. It was getting late, and we decided to head back to Kathmandu.

My tour company will book 2 helicopters to fly everyone of us the next morning.

Slightly dejected, we left the airport and went back to Thamel, Kathmandu

I notified my travel insurance about the travel delay, and in retrospect, feel that the trainee pilot wasn't quite there yet. I wouldn't want to have a trainee pilot flying us into Lukla. In normal days, it takes 2 experienced pilot to do this route.

A 1-day delay also means we lost 1 of the 2 acclimatization days. We had to fly into Lukla the next day, or else, EBC will be jeopardy. There were talks among the team that, if we still can't get to Lukla by tomorrow, we will trek to Annapurna Base Camp from Pokhara. 

I wasn't too keen, as I had done it 5 years ago. But at that moment, there wasn't anything we could do. 

I kept quiet, and hoped for the best.

To be continue...

Up next:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/06/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-1.html