Incredible India - Agra Part 2

Previously, I made my way to Agra from New Delhi:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/01/incredible-india-agra-part-1.html

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Taj Mahal - One of the 7 wonders of the world. Who hasn’t heard about it?

First impression was - Wow~ Thank goodness I made this trip!

I am a slow pacer, and prefer to take my visits slowly, rather than bulldozing my way through attractions, I practically freed up the whole day for this world famous site. Staying literally 100m away from the East Gate (Sheela Hotel) was a plus.

Being so close to the mosque adjacent to Taj Mahal meant I was woken-up by the mosque around 5.30am for ‘Imsak’ or Fajr prayers. There was a surreal and serene feeling – Calmness. Maybe it felt like Malaysia.

All religions teach us to do good and be kind to others. What goes around comes around.

The Taj is famous for sunrise and sunset, but it was winter, and mornings were shrouded in mist and fog. So I decided that catching sunrise would be futile and instead, planned to catch sunset. I would enter the site only after a late lunch.  

Agra is in Uttar Pradesh, one of the more serious parts of India hit by demonstrations. The government decided to cut mobile internet connection. Undeterred, I started my day when the fog cleared partially and the temperature rose slightly above 10 degrees, around 9am. In a way, getting around based on a guidebook and offline map was interesting. From the East Gate, I walked north towards the Yamuna River. It was early, and the further I walked, the quieter it got. There was a colony of monkeys though. 

Must have made the Taj Mahal complex home for generations

I walked along the walls of the Taj Mahal complex to my left, made from huge red impressive sandstones. To my right was a small village, bushes and wilderness.

The Yamuna River is around 1300km long, merges with the River Ganges and originates from the Lower Himalayas. Wikipedia describes this river and is worth a read at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamuna. According to this article, in 1909, Yamuna was clear blue but like most rivers today, it is not the cleanest. The Indian government is trying their best to conserve the river though. The Yamuna River flows past the Taj Mahal to the north, and opposite the river, is the Mehtab Bagh (Mehtab garden), supposedly the site of a black Taj, the final resting place for Shah Jahan.

The Yamuna River, and Mehtab Bagh on the opposite side

Mehtab Bagh, supposedly a beautiful garden during Shahjahan’s time in the 16^th century. Today, what is left is a barren land, with visible trash and litter. The British had also altered the landscape to make it more ‘English’, while the Yamuna River had also moved eastward.

Turning the corner to the left, I instantly spotted the unmistakable Taj Mahal, and it was gorgeous. It was still early, and the fog and mist gave it a mystical feel. It looked like what we always see on the internet or in advertisements.

No it's not a wallpaper

I then walked the southwards, and encircled the Taj Mahal’s perimeter until I reach the West Gate, which was far more touristy and happening. I pushed northwards to the Yamuna River, this time on the west flank of the Taj. There was a temple, a quarry, and a small village. There was also a funeral procession, where around 30 people tailed the deceased. I looked away, while trying my best to imagine and trace what this place would look like during its prime. 

It's winter, so some extra clothing is welcomed

Wasn't the most pleasing to the eye, but you could tell it was like paradise during its prime

Enjoying the sunshine (Dome of the Taj on the far right)

Cheese naan with butter chicken - Had some concern when the restaurant owner said there were water cuts

After lunch, I queued for the ticket outside East Gate, and exactly what https://wikitravel.org/en/Agra had stated – rogue tour guides stating they could provide a tour and help beat the queue at the entrance, charging almost 700 Rp (half the normal stated price). Truth was, foreigners pay Rp. 1300 (around SGD26), and there is a ‘Foreigner’ entry, which seldom gets jammed up. I noticed that the ticket was valid for 3 hours, but didn’t take it seriously. No food or big bags allowed.

To be honest, to enter with a guide book, or even articles from the Internet is absolutely fine. You may get some bonus explanation from big groups, but most of these information are the basics.

The Muslim rulers of north India, of the Mughal Empire left a long line of architectures, palaces and gardens, and the Taj is at the very pinnacle.

Words couldn't really describe - Video could

Pure white marble of the dome, with precious stones lining up the façade, not to mention the artistry of Arabic words, were all work of masters.

It was definitely a sight to behold (Most probably the most extravagant mausoleum in the word)

It was also very well-maintained, and consider the aging process (after 4 centuries), coupled with serious pollution everywhere, it is remarkable to see the Taj Mahal unshaken and glowing. Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal is set to be remembered for eternity.

The spaces were once fitted with gold

I tried to memorize the lotus-shaped crystals and precious stones, the gradient of the arcs, the details of carvings… I then closed my eyes to reimagine and recount these master pieces. Being someone hopeless in art, this trip to India saw me determined to at least memorize or simulate myself drawing and painting these simple yet time-withstanding shapes and symbols.

Rows of precious stones fitting to the carvings around the entire mausoleum

I spoke to a fellow tourist, and asked if the 3-hour limit (stated on the ticket) was true, and the answer I got was, no one really cared. So quite happily, I chilled and spent my time in the complex, absorbing and observing as much as I could. The crowd did not stop entering. Tour groups (especially from China, Korea), local school children in uniforms, visitors on mobility device… Everyone was visibly excited and impressed.

Sitting around looking at the faces of visitors was equally interesting (Everyone wears a shoe-cover)

As the golden sun climbed to its height, the sky turned clear and blue, and the Taj Mahal started glowing.

By this time you need your sun-glasses - But being winter, it was comfortable

I could sit here whole day

I also visited the Taj Mahal museum, a small but insightful gallery on the west-flank of the Taj Mahal (still within the complex). There were portraits of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, paintings of the Taj Mahal from Mehtab Bagh (across the river). There were no cameras 4 centuries ago, and these paintings were as good as photographs, being extremely detailed. The painters deserve credit.

I bought my entrance ticket at 1.30pm, and only walked out at 5pm, after enjoying sunset. Fog had build up, and I wasn't able to distinguish if it was caused by pollution (haze). As I walked out of the Taj Mahal, the temperature had dropped dramatically, from a high of around 15 degrees during the day to around 10 degrees.

As I tried to exit, my token was found to be invalid. It’s like you didn’t have enough credit on your Touch N Go card. I had overstayed my time, and the token is no longer valid!

Immediately, a young staff came over and tried to 'help', while requesting me to show my ticket. So in touristy places, you have to be very suspicious when someone wants to 'help'. In India, it is imperative to keep your tickets with you, even after you checked it at the entrance, because they check it everywhere, even at the exits.

Just as this staff wanted to bring me to the counter (and I suppose, to pay a fine), a more officer-looking guy with spectacles asked for my token, exchanged one of his (many) tokens, and saw me out. At that moment, I realized that there are also compassionate and kind-hearted people around.

I just didn't have enough, but it was time leave

Don’t get me wrong, I overstayed for 30 minutes, and would happily pay for another ticket just to catch sunset at the Taj Mahal. The fact that this officer was willing to let me go without fuss made my day. Not everyone is looking forward to make fast cash. I reckon those who don't read English wouldn't see the time limit, and the limit was not advertised anywhere.   

Fried rice and milo for dinner back at Sheela Hotel (You get a bit fatigue of drinking Masala Chai 3 times a day)

I highly recommend Sheela Hotel, though their hot shower comes in a bucket. It is reasonably priced and really near the East Gate of Taj Mahal.

What a day!

Next up, the royal city of Rajasthan - Jaipur:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/01/incredible-india-jaipur-part-1.html