Incredible India - New Delhi Part 1

Previously, I was in Jaipur:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/04/incredible-india-jaipur-part-2.html

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I think deep within every traveler's heart, there will always be a faraway and out-of-reach destination, for almost eternal, that we did not quite make it. Be it because of budget, timing or will power. We normally console ourselves about the drawbacks and risks involved, place-holder-ing it somewhere in the future. 

I have been telling everyone that I want to take Open Water diving license for about a decade...

The recent global lock-down (or lock-up) is likely to cut down global travel for at least 2-3 years, as organizations discover the effectiveness of technology, telecommuting and virtual meetings. I think there will be a significant reduction in international travel. 

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For more than a decade, I placed New Delhi in my to-visit list. I have long read the adventures, history and tradition of the capital of India - Of course, the reviews are bipolar. I had a 300-page Lonely Planet (India), bought from a roadside stall in Cambodia. 

So, I am glad I made this spontaneous trip during the final weeks of 2019 - We all know what happened next, to the world. 

We only live life once, and you better do things that you want to do, fast

The last post saw me hop on the 5.50pm train from Jaipur, heading back to New Delhi. I was back in the 1st class carriage, and an incredible dinner was served.

Appetizer was perfect, especially the popcorn (right) 

I enjoyed the tomato puree with bread sticks too. Warm food/soup is welcomed during winter

Main course was perfect - Served right from the oven (I cleared everything)

I arrived at New Delhi Railway Station (NDRS) at around 11pm. Being my first port of call in Delhi, and after spending almost a whole night wandering around this railway station at 8 degrees Celsius on Day 1, I was quite familiar with this place.

As usual the railway station was full of energy, full of people

New Delhi Railway Station - Be extra careful of your belongings and never follow anyone out of the station (Always approach the policemen, who were re-assuring)

I had pre-booked a room (www.booking.com) within walking distance (10 minutes) - In the hippy and backpacker enclave of Paharganj. I prefer to stay near public transport hubs, as I normally do lots of walking.

The area of Paharganj - You look after yourself, don't speak or trust anyone else

I had forgotten what kind of stay I booked, and was rather impressed with the room - Harsha Hotel, at Rp.1k/night (SGD1 = Rp.50)

It was great to have a nice warm shower, and a warm room to myself, shielding myself from the winter, hustle and bustle outside.

An important note is that the hotels in Delhi control the air-conditioning and warm shower switches from the reception. For almost half an hour, I put on my hat as an electrician, to figure out the system. It was not possible to take cold shower at night. Alas, the solution was to go to the reception and inform them to turn the switches on.

I will be forever grateful to be able to sleep well in almost any environment. Growing up, I used to sleep without a pillow, and was able to sleep on the floor. Needless to say, the double-bed was perfect, and I dozed-off in no time.

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Next morning, I took breakfast at a classy looking hotel just out side my hotel - Godwin Hotel.

As a Malaysian, I relish a multitude of food - What a breakfast! It took around 20 min. to prepare though

I set out for the Red Fort around 10am, fully energized and filled with calories. Any monument or location on the cover-page of Lonely Planet deserves top priority.

Amazing and majestic

The Mughal Empire left us with so much of architecture splendor 

The Lahori Gate - The Prime Minister of India would stand at the window to address the nation during Independence Day (facing Lahore)

Remember to sign-up the in-house audio guide. It has to be the best audio guide around.

The audio guide host was (the 46th direct line) descendant of the Mughal Empire royal family, so it was quiet special

It was nearing to lunch time, and the queue and crowd were manageable. So there were indeed some perks of visiting at non-peak hours.

I truly enjoyed the audio tour and history lectures while weaving around the headquarters of the once mighty Mughal Empire, taking my own sweet time

Of course, like any student, I did my homework, and read up on the Mughal Empire (The Diwan-i Khas - The emperor's audience hall)

Precious stones, similar to those of Taj Mahal - You could see the depth of the stones from the removed ones

Emperor Shahjahan, who built the Taj Mahal for his wife Mumtaz Mahal, had shifted his capital from Agra here (I wrote about Agra in Part 1 and Part 2). He call called this place Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi) in 1638. The Red Fort would be his residence, and of the subsequent emperors for centuries to come. 

Diwan-i Khas - Emperor's seat, where legendary peacock throne once stood, until it was stolen by the Persian emperor in the 1700's

Lunch time for the squirrels too

Having burned all my calories in the Red Fort, I left for lunch at around 2pm. I was taken aback when I saw the queue at the entrance. Droves of tourists were queuing to enter the Red Fort, while I walked out carefreely.

Lunch was on one of the busy streets opposite the Red Fort, known as Old Delhi.

This dish is literally called Chow Mien (direct translation from Chinese!). It was like instant noodles you cook for supper - The Chai was top class though (You could see the hot vapor rising)

Old Delhi

Briyani and Chai

Diagonal to the Red Fort, was Jama Masjid, also built by Shahjahan. 

It was Friday, and there was a congregation outside the mosque (and the folks looked dead serious)

It was the height of objection against the Citizen Amendment Act

Jama Masjid - Enter as you like, as long as you pay for a ticket

I have come to a conclusion that the debate of religions is futile 

I tried to understand, absorb and observe as much as I could. The Jama Masjid was a place of serenity. 

Built in the 1600's by Shahjahan, officiated by an Imam from Uzbekistan

Little that I know, just a few days ago, the mosque had a sea of people, and tensions were high

Today, everything is back to routine, including the cat - You need to work, find food and earn a living, rightfully. Let religion be the source of spirituality for your inner-self, but don't forget about the economy, science and technology. Religion can cure your emotions/anxieties, but it may not cure Covid-19.

One of the less talked about attraction is the minaret, which was opened for visit during certain hours. You could buy the ticket for Rp.100. 

Maybe on a good (and less polluted) day, you could see more

Besides the slightly heavy breathing, it was a bit weird standing on top of the minaret above such a historical mosque. Coming from a predominantly Muslim country, I have only been to the National Mosque of my country. I have been to numerous Buddhist temples, churches, Hindu temples/shrines,  synagogues, but this was really a first for me. 

If there was a reason to stay fit, it is to become a more competent traveler

When you are poor, you make do with whatever plans. The issue is when you become better-off, and you start having weird restrictions to segregate people. You feel holier than anyone that do not share the same beliefs, and become self-centered. Anyone that doubt your beliefs is considered an outsider. 

COVID-19 actually provides a timely reminder that we are all firstly, human beings. Why segregate and differentiate? Why discriminate? We should always be respectful to others. We should all try to make this world a better place, especially for the needy and less fortunate. 

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At the end, we are all in this world, temporarily - We all have blood that is red in colour, no? 
(Streets of Old Delhi)

I also came to a realization that the debate on religion would never draw a conclusion (The market place)

It was dinner time, and I was determined to find some good food. It's Delhi~

Anything that is hot should have had the bacteria or germs roasted and killed

Had Briyani (look at the length of the rice!) opposite Jama Masjid, which was good (I only took the raw onions) - I tried to imagined myself being back in the Mughal Empire, eating local food.

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The first day in Delhi was beyond my expectation. It felt like me going back to the Mughal Empire, long before the British arrived. 

You could safely walk around Old Delhi during the day, and it was pleasant. I have to remind that coming during summer would be different. Another tip is to use the Delhi Metro as much as you could, as the Tuk-tuk drivers are at times quite arrogant. Google Map unfortunately isn't well-linked with the Metro, so you may think there is no stations nearby. 

Last but not least, the main reason why pollution is more severe during winter months...

I am not sure you could blame the people

That's why my passion lies in the the field of energy - Smart, safe and sustainable. 

Till Part 2:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/05/incredible-india-new-delhi-part-2.html