From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 11: Stranded in Lukla

Hot on the heels from:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/10/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-10.html

25 May 2018, Friday, Lukla

Finally, the day to head back to Kathmandu. I woke up a quite edgy, hoping for a clear sky, so that our flight back to Kathmandu would be as scheduled. 

I wouldn't say that I eagerly wanted to get out of the Himalayas. I just had one of the best 10-days of my life. 

But I wanted to have another shower, which I didn't have for 2 days (since Namche Bazaar). The lodge at Lukla didn't have hot water, citing the lack of sunshine for the Solar panels...

The day started really well. Glorious sunshine, clear blue sky and we had a fantastic view glancing out of the hostel window. We were on standby mode at 7am!

What a morning!

CCTV in the hostel to have real-time monitoring of the Lukla Airport runway

No more hard-boiled eggs and toasts - There's no more hiking left, so it's time for some pancake with honey and jam

We were told that we are on the third out-going Tara Air flight. We kept our fingers crossed. We are required to gather at the airport (which looked more like a bus station) when the second flight comes in. 

In anything you do, never lose hope

However, in true fuzzy Nepali standards, Henry suddenly told us that we were on the 6th flight out. Alas, we were still hopeful.

On a slightly different note, we learn that our porters had ditched us, apparently not being happy with the tips they received the previous night. According to Henry, the 'market rate' was USD 60 for the whole trek. Our own research showed that it's about USD 40-60. I have no qualms tipping the porters this amount. There were 4 porters, each carrying 2 x 10 kg for the 8 of us in the team. So the 8 of us put our tips together, and handed it to head porter the night before. We then had a pleasant dinner with the porters. So, I was quite disappointed learning that porters didn't show up as promised.

To my dismay, I would later discover that a team member chose not to tip anything. Our total tip amount would be unexpectedly lower. Again, tipping is a culture, and everyone has their own right to decide. I felt annoyed knowing how people could spend on 'luxurious items' such as unlimited cans of Pringles, coke, cakes, a USD 200 half-day horse-ride...

Yet, refuse to acknowledge the work of the porters, who enabled him to 'walk' his way up empty handed (with a mere day-pack of 2 Litters of water). It was a shame. It wasn't a lot of money to us, and we could easily earn it again. However, any amount is significant income to the porters, who are still mostly teenagers making an honest living. I doubt most of my team members adhered to the 10kg backpack rule like I did. So the porters worked really hard, and were always on time in their collection and delivery.

Needless to say, our guide (performed average, at most) and assistant guide would get nothing too from some of my teammates, supposedly from a 'first world' country.

I was disgusted.

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 10: Namche Bazaar to Lukla

Previously:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/10/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-9.html

24 May 2018, Thursday

Namche Bazaar (3440m) - Lukla (2850m)

Trek time: 9 hours instead of 7 hours (due to strained right heel)


I woke up quite early in order to start hiking at 6.30am. Dave and Dhinesh were really kind to accompany me as early starters. I had a strained right heel, which took the wind off me quite substantially the day before. I felt in-debt and blessed to have met them. The rest of the team would start at the usual time of 8am. It was vital that I get to Lukla before night-fall, and fly out of Lukla the next day.

Amazing views on the way down

(From right) Dave, Dhinesh and I 

Interestingly, after a good night's sleep and lots of muscle cream, my right heel actually felt good. It still feels when I touch it, but I was able to walk without much fuss. Boy was I relieved. 

It took around 2.5 hours to reach Monjo (which was faster than the 4-hour estimation) from Namche, the landmark entrance to Everest Base Camp.

I would reach Phakding at noon

From then on, the landscape would change dramatically. There were more vegetation, felt increasingly humid, while the ground was wetter. There were visibly more manure, which stink. There were no more yaks, but donkeys were aplenty. Yaks require colder climate. 

The last day seeing yaks

Kids going to school

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 9: Pangboche to Namche Bazaar

This is a continuation post from:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/09/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-8_30.html

23 May 2018, Wednesday

Pangboche (3800m) - Namche Bazaar (3440m)

Trek time: 9 hours instead of 5.5 hours (due to strained right heel)

Had a good sleep at Pangboche's Eco Hotel. At 3800m, oxygen was plentiful, and I thoroughly slept through the night. They say in the Himalayas, you are able to enjoy star-gazing, experiencing the milky-way, meteor shower...

For me, pure exhaustion was apparent. Even going to the loo was done at god-speed. Forget about waking up, braving the cold, and leaving my -20 C sleeping bag.  

I woke up at 4.45am feeling my right heel. It was due to the careless leap I did yesterday in order to overtake a yak-train. After a grueling 13-hour hike, without feeling anything, it finally swell as I slept. In a way I was fortunate that the heel held itself yesterday. It'll be almost impossible to hike from Gorak Shep to Pangboche with an unfit heel.

Thankfully, I had my own first aid-kit and essentials. 

My essentials: Knee/ankle guard, chlorine pills, muscle cream, tea bag, watch, 风油, gloves

Dawn broke early, and I went out exploring the village of Pangboche, which has the oldest monastery above 3900m in Nepal.

There was a sense of spirituality or zen (if you may) - Very tranquil and serene

Tibetan scriptures everywhere, but sadly, not many understand the knowledge and wisdom nowadays

Early passer-by - The surrounding of Pangboche

We started hiking after breakfast at 7.45am. 

The rocket trio of Ryan, Dave and Pat would reach Namche Bazaar at 1pm, while the second group would reach around 2pm. 

Summer season is ending soon, so is the hiking season

To my horror, my strained right heel was almost hopeless. My walking speed was so slow that the yaks could overtake me. I was basically limping. Thankfully, I had my hiking poles, which was vital.

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 8: Part 2 (Gorak Shep - Kala Patthar - Pangboche)

Previously, I hiked up Kala Patthar at:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/09/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-8.html

22 May 2018, Monday

Gorak Shep (5180m) - Kala Patthar (5455m) - Pangboche (3800m)

Trek time: 
- 3.5 hours round-trip to Kala Patthar at 4am (extremely tough hike for me)
- 2.5 hours to Lobuche
- 1.5 hours to Tukla
- 4 hours to Pangboche

In Day 8 Part 1, I was able to drag myself up and down Kala Patthar, before taking breakfast at around 8am

~~~

As the team set-off the long journey downhill, I took my time to settle all my chores, which include having my customary toilet break, brushing my braces-wearing teeth (with minimal water), packing my bags...

From then on, there were no more urgency or expectations. As far as I was concern, I achieved my objectives in Nepal, the holy grail of an armature hiker. I departed Gorak Shep around at around 9am with Henry (our guide), and took my time to trek, savouring the landscape and scenery. I enjoyed the Himalayan skyline. 

This wasn't a good thing, as complacent crept-in. Being impatient of waiting for the yak-train, I made a few jumps on the rocks too many. I was actually trying to follow Henry's speed, being the last member of the team. A particular jump-landing with full body weight on my right leg would cause a bad strain on my right heel the next day. 

You could hire a donkey if you can't move

For most of the hike, I was alone, and was wondering where the rest were. Dinesh was leading the front pack. reached Lobuche at around 11.30am.

Was extremely glad to see Lobuche, after trekking alone for more than an hour

I headed straight into our lodge expecting to find familiar faces - without success

I was somewhat confident to trek alone because I had a Nepali sim-card, with the phone numbers of my guides and the tour company office in Kathmandu. Fortunately, Henry suddenly appeared at the guesthouse, saying that I had somehow overtook him, as he was waiting for me. Luckily, he spotted me on the horizon, and hurried to the guesthouse.

After a breather at the guesthouse, refilling drinking water and retrieving Ryan's lost sunglasses, we pushed on, and reach Tukla Tea House at around 1pm. It was only at Tukla that I met half of my teammates. The 'rocket team' of Dave, Ryan and Pat were long gone.

Packed my egg sandwich (which wasn't the best) from Tukla, and pushed for Pangboche

The trek to Pangboche was serene

Trekking with my teammates, whom we became quite close was enjoyable. We spoke a lot as we trekked. It was really nice. I made great friends in Neil, Reena, Praksha, Shiva and of course Dinesh, our guide.

It did felt like a never ending journey

Even after 3.5 hours of hiking and in the late afternoon, Pangboche was still super far away 

Nevertheless, we all reach Pangboche at around 5.30pm. I felt great at 3800m. Oxygen felt plentiful. Statistically, I have walked for 13 hours, having started the day at 4am!

No hot shower available though

The only thing I want, was a hot shower the next day at Namche Bazaar.

Up next:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/10/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-9.html

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 8: Part 1 (Gorak Shep - Kala Patthar - Pangboche)

Previously:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/08/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-7.html

22 May 2018, Monday

Gorak Shep (5180m) - Kala Patthar (5455m) - Pangboche (3800m)

Trek time: 
- 4 hours round-trip to Kala Patthar (extremely tough hike for me)
- 2.5 hours to Lobuche
- 1.5 hours to Tukla
- 4 hours to Pangboche

If I had to choose one of the longest and physically challenging days of my life, it'll be this day.

I seem to be the only one in the team that was motivated for Kala Patthar, and I woke up at quarter to 4, promptly. Had to wake my roommate - Dave up, and credits to him, he was up for it. We knocked the doors of our fellow teammates (Ryan / Pat), but no one could wake up. 

Undeterred, we headed downstairs and found a few hikers near the door of the lodge. There was no sign of our guides. We decided to tag along with other hikers, as we half-suspect that our guides wouldn't turn up.  

It was 4am, dark and cold outside.

We were told that it takes around 2 hours to the peak, and were promised the sunrise view of Everest. The words and reminder of the Canadian guide I met at the airport when I touched down (which was now more than a week ago) still rang strongly. 

And boy it was a tough hike, at least for me. Dawn broke around 5.30am, where the first rays of light projected through the skyline. 

It was a vertical ascend of around 350m (Mt. Pumori peak at the rear end)

If you look carefully, you could see the town of Gorak Shep (almost center of this photo)

Dave, after a slow start, become his usual self, and without much fuss, disappeared. The more I climbed the slower I got. Hikers overtook me, as I took breaks, and photos. A mistake I made though, was that I didn't take breakfast. (Who takes breakfast at 3.45am?) A cup of milo probably would have helped. 

Everest hides behind the mountain range

It took me an excruciating 2.5 hours to reach the summit of Kala Patthar. While on the way up, I saw Dave, who was already heading back for breakfast, citing the crowd and cold at the summit. In a way, by taking my own sweet time, I reached the summit pretty empty.

View of Kala Patthar - Sunny, but I was in my down-jacket all the time (Mt. Pumori peak at the rear end)

Tips for Chevening Scholarship Application

What are your dreams in life?

What about taking a break from work, and head back to university for a Masters degree (uni and subject of your choice), on a full scholarship?

Have you ever thought of embarking on a once in a life time adventure in the UK, a gateway to Europe?

The UK Chevening Scholarship presents an opportunity, and I was a fortunate recipient in 2016-17.

Receiving award certificate from High Commissioner (Malaysia) - HE Vicki Treadell (July 2016)

You can read more info at their website: www.chevening.org (open for applications from 6 August)

Every year, 1800 scholars from around the world are chosen to embark on a year's adventure in the UK. In Malaysia, there are around 40 recipients each year. The per-capita ratio for Malaysia is one of the highest. 

This year, another 45 Malaysians are heading to the UK: https://www.nst.com.my/news/nation/2018/08/399803/45-chevening-scholars-set-pursue-postgraduate-studies-uk

Read about Diana Shakira's account: https://www.nst.com.my/education/2018/08/403976/uk-bound-postgrad-studies

From my observation, Cheveners come from a mixture of professional backgrounds, from lawyers, doctors, scientists, environmentalist, government officers, engineers, journalists, social activists and the list goes on. One thing is for sure, these people are no fluke. All are experts, leaders and high-achievers in their fields. Initially, I did feel a lack of confidence, or slightly inferior, like a small prawn in a huge lake. 

Anyway, this should not stop you from TRYING and APPLYING for the scholarship. You stand a chance only if you apply. In fact, a friend made the cut only after 3 years or applications. 

So credits to my Chevening 2016-17 friends for indirectly contributing to this post.

Malaysian Cheveners 2016-17

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 7 (Lobuche - Gorak Shep - Everest Base Camp)

This post is a continuation from:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/08/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-6.html

21 May 2018, Sunday

Lobuche (4900m) - Gorak Shep (5180m) - EBC (5400m) - Gorak Shep

Trek time: 3 hours to Gorak Shep, lunch, 1.5 hours to EBC, 2 hours back to Gorak Shep (full day of challenging treks)

FINALLY, for all our hopes, anxiety and uncertainties endured, "The Day" has arrived!

I woke up early, feeling extra motivated. Few of my teammates found it hard to sleep at almost 5000m, but I slept well, with a few runs to the toilet. It is vital that we hydrate ourselves at night. I place 1 litter of water by the bed and take sips every time I felt thirsty.

Before I start trekking, I religiously go through my warm-up routines. I was adamant that warming-up and stretching was key in maintaining my fitness and muscles intact. Sub-consciously, it's a sign both physically and mentally to prepare for the day's work.

I am full of awe that none in my team do warm-up and stretching. And I am still amazed till this day!

My secret to a good breakfast - Milo + Cadbury drink

A scribble on the Malaysian flag at Peak 15th Hotel, Lobuche before heading for Gorak Shep (able to spot my name?)

As planned, we started our hike at 7.15am. If there was a marathon day in the Himalayas, it will be today. Besides the planned round trip to EBC from Gorak Shep, we need to wake up really early the next morning. There was still a 2-hour trek up Kala Patthar (5545m) the next morning at 4am, for sunrise.

It was another fantastic hike

The hike to Gorak Shep requires 3 hours (at my pace) and was quite steep. Alas, after a week of hiking, I started to feel my left thigh muscle. Still, the weather was fantastic, and we had a clear blue sky. I pushed on. 

I would maintain my pace, take rests and drink loads of water

At this stage, it's all about your mental strength - Everyone was tired (and have not showered for days)

Photo opportunities are everywhere

After about 3 hours of trekking, we arrive at the legendary Gorak Shep, the site of the old base camp at around 10am. I was glad to see Gorak Shep.

The village of Gorak Shep, with Kala Patthar (5455m) and Pumori Peak (7161m) at the background

From Gorak Shep, you could choose to take a helicopter back to Lukla for USD 200 per way.

Helipad - View from Himalaya Lodge's lunch table

A painful sight - Porters carry anything and everything

 We had lunch, took a breather and started our ultimate hike to EBC at 12.45pm.

Traveling light, as we have Gorak Shep as a base (Still, it was tough)

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 6 - Dingboche to Lobuche

This is a continuation post from:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/07/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-5.html

20 May 2018, Saturday

Dingboche (4260m) - Lobuche (4900m)

Trek time: 3 hours to Thukla (average) - lunch - 3 hours to Lobuche (challenging) - 2 hours acclimatization hike to 5100m (average)


It's Saturday! It's the weekend! But in the Himalayas, it makes no difference. I lost count of the time, days and date. I felt great, glad to be away and isolated from civilization. There was no internet connection, no stress, no deadlines, no need to wear my spectacles (for driving and computers), no worries of life... I reckon hiking, is the best way to give yourself a break, de-stress and rejuvenate (PROVIDED you enjoy hiking, stay fit and not get injured). Mother nature, with almost no pollution, heals.  

Like everyday in the Himalayas, I would wake up before my alarm sets off, when the first rays of sun shines into the room. It's normal considering we all head to bed by 9.30pm, and really tired. I wake up everyday raring to go, looking forward to the treks, and... breakfast.

Today was no different. I woke up around 6am, peeped out the window, and realized the sky was clear! Blue sky! I jumped out of my cozy and warm sleeping bag, quickly grab my phone, and rushed out to find Ama Dablam in front of my very eyes.

Magical. Magnificent.

Ama Dablam (A possible summit of choice)

I suppose it was still 'early', and most of the people were still in their cozy beds. Breakfast was at 7am, while the trekking starts at 8am.

It was really quiet, serene, peaceful. Enjoying the sunshine and breeze was wonderful

It's like being in the Himalayas alone

As planned, we started our hike at around 8.15am. We were advised to ascend slowly today. It will be a long day. We also planned for acclimatization hike after reaching Lobuche.

Happy days, still strong and energetic

The skyline of limitless mountain range - One of those moments that you will forever remember

Today's scenery, coupled with the clear blue sky, was the best thus far.

Glacier melting (and you can hear them)

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 5 - Deboche to Dingboche

This post is a continuation from:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/07/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-4.html


19 May 2018, Friday

Deboche (3820m) - Dingboche (4260m) - Acclimatization hike to 4650m - Dingboche (4260m)

Trek time: 5 hours (average) & 2 hours acclimatization hike (challenging)

I woke up after a pretty good sleep. I am fortunate to have the 'ability' to sleep anywhere. We left the lodge at around 8am, and after the first corner, we (finally) had the first glimpse of Everest.  

Quickly take a group photo before it disappears

Dave and I led the pack, and were at least an hour ahead. We maintained our pace, and hoped to catch more of Everest, which became a motivation.

There you go

The trek today was scenic and near perfect.

Weather was good

Ama Dablam, a peak of 6812m was constantly towering above us 

The fittest hiker in the group, at 22 - Dave is a swimmer who, most probably is the only one who has a realistic chance climbing the peak of Everest 

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 4 - Namche to Tengboche

This post is a continuation from:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/06/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-3.html

18 May 2018, Thursday

Namche Bazaar (3440m) - Tengboche Monastery (3800m) - Deboche (3820m)

Trek time: 5 hours (average hike before lunch, steep uphill after lunch)

External reference: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tengboche

We left Namche Bazaar around 8am. After 2 days, I felt quite at home in Namche Bazaar, with the hot shower and 4G internet speed. We would subsequently stay in Namche for another night on the way down.

The morning hike was manageable, along long and winding sandy paths. I made it a point to always greet other trekkers and hikers along the way 'Namaste', with a smile. Like everywhere I go, I would take up some of the local language. I picked up some basic Nepali. I learned from Henry and Din as we trek. It made my teammates wonder what on earth was I speaking to the locals, while my guides smile as I practiced. 

You could see that it'll be a long day

Passed by a Stupa that commemorates Tenzing Norgay and the Sherpas

The Sherpas, or in our case, porters were the real heroes in the mountains. They carry more and walk faster than anyone.

Of course, our guides would arrive with the last hiker,  and are the last to eat

The view was exceptional, and worth all the effort 

It's summer season, and it's refreshing to see flowers in blossom