Sunday, August 26, 2018

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 7 (Lobuche - Gorak Shep - Everest Base Camp)

This post is a continuation from:

21 May 2018, Sunday

Lobuche (4900m) - Gorak Shep (5180m) - EBC (5400m) - Gorak Shep

Trek time: 3 hours to Gorak Shep, lunch, 1.5 hours to EBC, 2 hours back to Gorak Shep (full day of challenging treks)

FINALLY, for all our hopes, anxiety and uncertainties endured, "The Day" has arrived!

I woke up early, feeling extra motivated. Few of my teammates found it hard to sleep at almost 5000m, but I slept well, with a few runs to the toilet. It is vital that we hydrate ourselves at night. I place 1 litter of water by the bed and take sips every time I felt thirsty.

Before I start trekking, I religiously go through my warm-up routines. I was adamant that warming-up and stretching was key in maintaining my fitness and muscles intact. Sub-consciously, it's a sign both physically and mentally to prepare for the day's work.

I am full of awe that none in my team do warm-up and stretching. And I am still amazed till this day!

My secret to a good breakfast - Milo + Cadbury drink
A scribble on the Malaysian flag at Peak 15th Hotel, Lobuche before heading for Gorak Shep (able to spot my name?)


As planned, we started our hike at 7.15am. If there was a marathon day in the Himalayas, it will be today. Besides the planned round trip to EBC from Gorak Shep, we need to wake up really early the next morning. There was still a 2-hour trek up Kala Patthar (5545m) the next morning at 4am, for sunrise.

It was another fantastic hike
The hike to Gorak Shep requires 3 hours (at my pace) and was quite steep. Alas, after a week of hiking, I started to feel my left thigh muscle. Still, the weather was fantastic, and we had a clear blue sky. I pushed on. 

I would maintain my pace, take rests and drink loads of water

At this stage, it's all about your mental strength - Everyone was tired (and have not showered for days)
Photo opportunities are everywhere
After about 3 hours of trekking, we arrive at the legendary Gorak Shep, the site of the old base camp at around 10am. I was glad to see Gorak Shep.

The village of Gorak Shep, with Kala Patthar (5455m) and Pumori Peak (7161m) at the background
From Gorak Shep, you could choose to take a helicopter back to Lukla for USD 200 per way.

Helipad - View from Himalaya Lodge's lunch table
A painful sight - Porters carry anything and everything
 We had lunch, took a breather and started our ultimate hike to EBC at 12.45pm.

Traveling light, as we have Gorak Shep as a base (Still, it was tough)

It took me around 1.5 hours to reach Base Camp. There was still a 300m vertical ascent. For once, I felt like a real adventurer, realizing and cherishing the same path taken by Everest climbers. I tried picturing myself in the movie "Everest".

Of course, the real heroes were the many porters carrying supplies to the Base Camp. One striking supply is diesel/gasoline, which you wouldn't miss the pungent smell.

Yaks!
There were news of 2 deaths at Camp 2, and the corpse were being heli-ed back to Lukla
One thing to note about EBC is that, you won't get to see Everest while at EBC, as it's being blocked by Nuptse and Lhotse. You COULD only view Everest on the way to EBC.

Viewing Everest Peak (8848m) at 5300m
Need to thank the kind Samaritan who pointed Everest to me (as I was hiking alone without my guide) 
Wasted no time for a selfie with the highest point on earth
The clouds quickly caught up as I approached the Base Camp. I reached EBC at around 2pm, to find Pat hanging around. Dave and Ryan were further away exploring. The 3 of them were lightning quick!

At the end, the team made it! What an achievement for everyone!
Malaysia just had the 14th General Election on 9th of May (I left Malaysia on the 13th). Election fever was high, and the country was still in elation.

The climb is dedicated to all patriotic and brave Malaysians who turned out in droves to vote (on a Wednesday)

Actually met 3 different Malaysian groups in the Himalayas
March till end of May is Everest climbing season, where the real pros attempt the summit. They will need to stay at EBC for 2 months, acclimatizing and training. I am contented with reaching the Base Camp.

It's not the most comfortable place on earth, but what a sight!
EBC Helipad caught my eye


I wandered around the Base Camp and sat somewhere near the helipad to enjoy the views. Suddenly, a helicopter appeared from no where, and I started taking photos of the helicopter.

I was thinking, 'Cool! I've got a nice seat'
The helicopter flew closer and closer, and eventually FLEW OVER ME and landed on the helipad just behind me!
I admit, the gush of wind was a bit terrifying, and I scrambled to take cover 
For a moment, having the helicopter so near to me was quite a shock.

 
The view of EBC

Helicopter taking off after dropping supplies 

As the helicopter wheeled away, it was quiet again. The sudden calm and tranquility coupled with the spectacular view of the Everest range was quite moving. I reflected on my hiking journey thus far. From my first expedition trip to Gunung Ledang with the Boys' Brigade at 14, to the numerous mountains in Peninsular Malaysia, to Mt. Kinabalu and Annapurna Base Camp, I have accomplished the my ultimate aim of EBC. Seeing Mt. Everest with my own eyes was a personal milestone in life. To make it with minimum planning and preparation (I only signed up for the trip 2 weeks before departure) was a testament of living a healthy lifestyle, with consistent exercise and a balanced diet. 

I wished I could share this moment with people important to me. 

As the temperature dropped, it was time to head back to Gorak Shep. It took me about 2 hours, reaching Gorak Shep at around 5pm. Dave and co. made it back in 45 minutes! I prefer to take my time, soak in the atmosphere, enjoy the 'stroll' and hopefully, take a mental photograph of the Everest range.

I was also mindful of tomorrow morning's 4am hike. In hiking, you need to plan and conserve your fitness. I was totally exhausted getting back to Gorak Shep. I only felt better after Dal Bhat and my 'house tea'. 

I head straight to bed, and woke up every 2 hours to drink water and a run to the toilet. It was a cold night, and the facilities at Gorak Shep is the most primitive... But the experience of reaching EBC outweighs any hardships and challenges. 

One of the few occasions that I was really proud of myself. Forever thankful
Once upon a time, I was at Everest Base Camp!
EBC was challenging, but the real deal, as advised (and reminded) by a Canadian mountain guide I met while queuing for immigration at Kathmandu Airport, was Kala Patthar at 5455m, which we will attempt the next day at 4am.

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