From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 6 - Dingboche to Lobuche

This is a continuation post from:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/07/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-5.html

20 May 2018, Saturday

Dingboche (4260m) - Lobuche (4900m)

Trek time: 3 hours to Thukla (average) - lunch - 3 hours to Lobuche (challenging) - 2 hours acclimatization hike to 5100m (average)


It's Saturday! It's the weekend! But in the Himalayas, it makes no difference. I lost count of the time, days and date. I felt great, glad to be away and isolated from civilization. There was no internet connection, no stress, no deadlines, no need to wear my spectacles (for driving and computers), no worries of life... I reckon hiking, is the best way to give yourself a break, de-stress and rejuvenate (PROVIDED you enjoy hiking, stay fit and not get injured). Mother nature, with almost no pollution, heals.  

Like everyday in the Himalayas, I would wake up before my alarm sets off, when the first rays of sun shines into the room. It's normal considering we all head to bed by 9.30pm, and really tired. I wake up everyday raring to go, looking forward to the treks, and... breakfast.

Today was no different. I woke up around 6am, peeped out the window, and realized the sky was clear! Blue sky! I jumped out of my cozy and warm sleeping bag, quickly grab my phone, and rushed out to find Ama Dablam in front of my very eyes.

Magical. Magnificent.

Ama Dablam (A possible summit of choice)

I suppose it was still 'early', and most of the people were still in their cozy beds. Breakfast was at 7am, while the trekking starts at 8am.

It was really quiet, serene, peaceful. Enjoying the sunshine and breeze was wonderful

It's like being in the Himalayas alone

As planned, we started our hike at around 8.15am. We were advised to ascend slowly today. It will be a long day. We also planned for acclimatization hike after reaching Lobuche.

Happy days, still strong and energetic

The skyline of limitless mountain range - One of those moments that you will forever remember

Today's scenery, coupled with the clear blue sky, was the best thus far.

Glacier melting (and you can hear them)

We reached the small village of Thukla (4620m) at around 11.15am (3 hours of average hike), and breaked for lunch (at Yak Lodge).

The town of Thukla (in the middle of the Himalayas)

The trek after lunch though, was challenging. Known as the Thukla Pass, it was a steep hill to hike right after lunch. It most probably exhausted everything we ate.

A super steep hike after lunch from Thukla

On top of the hill, there's a plateau where the Everest Memorial is located - a remembrance of those who never came back from Everest. At the same time, clouds started to build up, adding to the sombre feeling. I realize that these were memorials, and not graves. The corpses are left on Everest. It's just too difficult and energy-sapping to even remove them. They call Mt. Everest the world's highest and largest open air graveyard (of adventurers), and "you are left where you fall".

Was summiting Everest more important than life?

For Mario, and Mireia

Memorial for adventurers and sherpas, some who've myth-like status

After Thukla Pass, we were at our own pace. For most of the trek till Lobuche, I had the Himalayas by myself. I enjoyed the moment walking in solitude, taking occasional breaks in the wilderness.

'Split capture' using HTC E9+ (Trekking solo in the Himalayas)

When I reached Peak 15th Hotel, Lobuche (4900m) at 3pm, I started feeling a bit tired and fatigue. I developed a headache (back of the head). When I have a headache (at the back of my head), it was a sign of fatigue, and maybe in this case, a slight effect due to altitude. There's always a desire to pop a paracetamol in, but I knew I was still going strong. All my limbs / muscles are doing well. It is only normal to feel the altitude, and I believe that once the body adjusts, it should be fine. In fact, it'll be surprising if the body doesn't feel anything after almost a week at high altitude. My personal goal was to complete the hike without taking unnecessary medication, just like for Annapurna Base Camp 5 years ago.

After chilling for an hour at the guesthouse, Ryan, Pat, Shiva and I gathered some courage, and departed for a quick acclimatization hike at 4.15pm. The hike opposite Lobuche took around an hour. Henry explained it was important to acclimatize, as tomorrow was "The Day". It was a 200m ascent (4900 to 5100m), passing-by the helipad of Lobuche. The reward, was a view of the Khumbu Ice Fall.

Khumbu Ice Fall (Since it was summer, you could hear avalanches, of melting glaciers)

The Khumbu Ice Fall is for many, a landmark. It is the first stage and challenge for anyone attempting to summit Everest. It's extremely dangerous as avalanche may happen, especially during midday. Expedition to the summit normally starts at 2am, so that hikers could cross the Khumbu Ice Fall to Camp 1 before mid-day.

The typical late afternoon cloud was a nuisance. What was a glorious morning of blue skies descended into thick white fogs.

At an altitude of 5100m, with Lobuche at the background

Stacked stones - Have seen a lot in Scotland

The meaning of stacked stones is unclear. From a Buddhism context, stacking stones requires balancing, focus, control, coordination of soul, mind and body. Some say it symbolizes a makeshift stupa / pagoda.

The Aussies (and Lobuche in the background)

I got back to the guesthouse exhausted. It was a long day. The sudden temperature drop reminded me of the altitude. Thankfully, there was a heater in the dining hall (with yak dung as fuel)! Still feeling the headache, I dozed off for 30 minutes beside the heater. After having Dal Bhat for dinner, and my customary post-dinner Damman Earl-Grey (with Yin Zhen) tea, the headache miraculously subsided.

The dining hall of Peak 15th Hotel, Lobuche, and the heater (my face towel hanging off it)

At this altitude, there were no hot showers. The tap water is no longer drinkable, as the 'mountain water' is polluted by the melting glaciers. You brush your teeth, wash-up with cold water. As an engineer, I would try anything to make life better. 

Here's a tip to enjoy a hot towel in sub-zero temperature. 
1. Wet / wash your face towel at the tap.
2. Place it above the heater's metal parts (steam will instantly rise up), which is normally quite clean. 
3. Wait for 30 seconds.
4. Enjoy hot towel wipes (just like when you are sitting in a Business Class flight).

Everyone was visibly exhausted, but equally determine to make the Base Camp tomorrow. We would start trekking tomorrow at 7am, to Gorak Shep (which was the old base camp). After lunch, the blockbuster showdown starts, as we will head to Everest Base Camp. 

Will everyone make it tomorrow? How would the weather be? Stay tune. 



Up next:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/08/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-7.html