From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 8: Part 1 (Gorak Shep - Kala Patthar - Pangboche)

Previously:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/08/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-7.html

22 May 2018, Monday

Gorak Shep (5180m) - Kala Patthar (5455m) - Pangboche (3800m)

Trek time: 
- 4 hours round-trip to Kala Patthar (extremely tough hike for me)
- 2.5 hours to Lobuche
- 1.5 hours to Tukla
- 4 hours to Pangboche

If I had to choose one of the longest and physically challenging days of my life, it'll be this day.

I seem to be the only one in the team that was motivated for Kala Patthar, and I woke up at quarter to 4, promptly. Had to wake my roommate - Dave up, and credits to him, he was up for it. We knocked the doors of our fellow teammates (Ryan / Pat), but no one could wake up. 

Undeterred, we headed downstairs and found a few hikers near the door of the lodge. There was no sign of our guides. We decided to tag along with other hikers, as we half-suspect that our guides wouldn't turn up.  

It was 4am, dark and cold outside.

We were told that it takes around 2 hours to the peak, and were promised the sunrise view of Everest. The words and reminder of the Canadian guide I met at the airport when I touched down (which was now more than a week ago) still rang strongly. 

And boy it was a tough hike, at least for me. Dawn broke around 5.30am, where the first rays of light projected through the skyline. 

It was a vertical ascend of around 350m (Mt. Pumori peak at the rear end)

If you look carefully, you could see the town of Gorak Shep (almost center of this photo)

Dave, after a slow start, become his usual self, and without much fuss, disappeared. The more I climbed the slower I got. Hikers overtook me, as I took breaks, and photos. A mistake I made though, was that I didn't take breakfast. (Who takes breakfast at 3.45am?) A cup of milo probably would have helped. 

Everest hides behind the mountain range

It took me an excruciating 2.5 hours to reach the summit of Kala Patthar. While on the way up, I saw Dave, who was already heading back for breakfast, citing the crowd and cold at the summit. In a way, by taking my own sweet time, I reached the summit pretty empty.

View of Kala Patthar - Sunny, but I was in my down-jacket all the time (Mt. Pumori peak at the rear end)

I made to the top of Kala Patthar almost defeated, at around 6.30am. It was a bad mistake not taking breakfast. Thankfully, I brought along some chocolate and power-bars, which I finished in god-speed.

At 5455m above sea level - The highest altitude I've been in life

Our friend having a breather

At the peak, the Everest mountain range unfolded beyond you

Gazing at Mount Everest (8848m) from Kala Patthar (5545m), I felt the possibility of attempting the summit. The highest point on earth looked within reach. In reality, climbing and scaling the summit poses substantial health risk, requires 2 months of acclimatization and training at the Base Camp and nevertheless, quite a hefty tour package. 8000m above sea level is deemed the ‘death zone’, where humans are not built to survive. The air is so thin and there is only 30% of oxygen as compared at sea level. The risk of hyperthermia and acute mountain sickness could easily claim lives. However, modern hiking gears, facilities and experienced guides made summiting Everest a reality for many. Mount Everest has seen more than 4000 people reaching the peak since Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary first ascended on 12^th May 1953, with rather primitive equipment. Yet, the true heroes in the Himalayas are the Sherpas and porters, who would fix ropes, tie ladders, carry hiking gears, break ice and most importantly, ensure the safety of hikers. 

Words don't do justice, nor do my lousy camera

A 360 degrees shot

I think I stayed up at the peak for almost half an hour, partly to recuperate, and to enjoy the fruits of victory. I would head down, and reach back Himalaya Lodge at 8am. The way down took around an hour, with a combination of running and hopping down-hill. 

Empty Kala Patthar

Gorak Shep

Dhinesh and Dave were at the foothill as I was descending. They must have been slightly concerned, and blessed them, for being the kind gesture. In retrospect, it was a bit risky to be hiking alone, without my guide. But since this trek was well known, people tend to be slightly easier.

Dinesh

My teammates were already having breakfast when I finally reached. A few worried looks, due to my whereabouts turned into laughter. 

Still, the peak of Kala Patthar shouldn't be missed, especially after being so far

It's the start of another (full) day of hiking, and needless to say, I was exhausted.


Up next:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/09/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-8_30.html