From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 9: Pangboche to Namche Bazaar

This is a continuation post from:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/09/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-8_30.html

23 May 2018, Wednesday

Pangboche (3800m) - Namche Bazaar (3440m)

Trek time: 9 hours instead of 5.5 hours (due to strained right heel)

Had a good sleep at Pangboche's Eco Hotel. At 3800m, oxygen was plentiful, and I thoroughly slept through the night. They say in the Himalayas, you are able to enjoy star-gazing, experiencing the milky-way, meteor shower...

For me, pure exhaustion was apparent. Even going to the loo was done at god-speed. Forget about waking up, braving the cold, and leaving my -20 C sleeping bag.  

I woke up at 4.45am feeling my right heel. It was due to the careless leap I did yesterday in order to overtake a yak-train. After a grueling 13-hour hike, without feeling anything, it finally swell as I slept. In a way I was fortunate that the heel held itself yesterday. It'll be almost impossible to hike from Gorak Shep to Pangboche with an unfit heel.

Thankfully, I had my own first aid-kit and essentials. 

My essentials: Knee/ankle guard, chlorine pills, muscle cream, tea bag, watch, 风油, gloves

Dawn broke early, and I went out exploring the village of Pangboche, which has the oldest monastery above 3900m in Nepal.

There was a sense of spirituality or zen (if you may) - Very tranquil and serene

Tibetan scriptures everywhere, but sadly, not many understand the knowledge and wisdom nowadays

Early passer-by - The surrounding of Pangboche

We started hiking after breakfast at 7.45am. 

The rocket trio of Ryan, Dave and Pat would reach Namche Bazaar at 1pm, while the second group would reach around 2pm. 

Summer season is ending soon, so is the hiking season

To my horror, my strained right heel was almost hopeless. My walking speed was so slow that the yaks could overtake me. I was basically limping. Thankfully, I had my hiking poles, which was vital.

So rather than being pressured, I took breaks, enjoyed the views, studied plants and flowers... Credits to Dhinesh, he accompanied me throughout, though looking visibly tired. Now I understood the helplessness feeling dragging the guide behind.

In retrospect, descending slowly meant I saw and observed many things...

A mom, 2 kids and a maid - The younger kid was crying, most probably due to exhaustion

Even the strongest need a break

Never be stingy in encouraging others

Meanwhile...

I was spinning prayer wheels on the way down

See me limping down-hill

A committed guide - Dhinesh waited for me

Indeed, I reach Namche Bazaar (Comfort Inn Guesthouse) at 5pm, after a 9-hour hike, totally exhausted. I was 3 hours behind pace.

Reaching Namche felt good. The hot shower (at USD 5) was even better! It has been a week without shower! It felt so so good in clean clothes, dry socks, enjoying the warmth and sipping my black tea after dinner. Trimming my nails felt like manicure (not to say I understand why you need to employ someone to care for your nails).

Reena's friends however, had hot shower for free at their hostel. For us, phone charging is around 2-3 USD, while a glass of hot water (for my tea) was USD 0.50. In a way, I somewhat agree that resources should be chargeable.

Namche was the last stop before we head straight down to Lukla the next day. After dinner, Henry would inform us on the tips. Each of us were encouraged to tip USD 60 for the porters, and USD 30 for the assistant guide. He also announced the bad news that weather in Lukla wasn't good - thick clouds, and that flights out of Lukla will be scarce.

There were NO FLIGHTS out of Lukla for the past 3 days. There was a risk that we may be stuck, like in Day 0 because of bad weather in Lukla. There were talk among the stronger team members of racing down to Lukla, and get on any available flights at available tomorrow.

Though concerned, my immediate aim was still to get to Lukla tomorrow. I planned to leave Namche Bazaar 2 hours earlier - at 6am, as my pace was severely impaired by my right heel. In a way I learnt a valuable life lesson. For the first few days leading to EBC, I led the packed. After getting to EBC and Kala Patthar, I took my foot off the paddle, whilst complacency and carelessness left me with an strained right heel. It made me the slowest hiker in the Himalayas. During the debacle, I couldn't even keep pace with the veteran American ladies.

I was determined to not drag the team behind. Namche to Lukla is 7 hours for normal pace. The last thing I want is to get stuck somewhere in between, and miss the flight the next day.

I was happy to retreat into bed after completing my journals. Sleeping in dry and clean clothes was a luxury.


Up next:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/10/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-10.html