In October 2019, we chose our ancestral home - Xiamen (厦门), China for a family holiday.
It's been too long since we had a full family holiday. I think the last time was Taiwan trip in Dec 2015. Our parents though, had multiple holidays and outings for the past 5 years, at least 2 annual oversea trips, as we took turns to bring them out. They can be considered frequent flyers.
We departed from KL to Xiamen Gaoqi airport via an evening flight. The morning before the flight, I arrived back in KL from London. Anyway, this was not the first time I took back-to-back flights in a day, but I don't expect this kind of travel to happen in the near future.
Before the family boarded the Yo-Yo Bus (airport liner) from Johor Bahru, I was already at KLIA killing time.
Xiamen, China is the family's origin. In fact, dad was born there, only to be the last 'kid' to leave the village with grandma in the 60's. Thus, this was also a family reunion trip. Dad's elder sister (姑姑) - Aunty Hua still lives in Xiamen. She was married off by grandpa at like 20, as the 'males' of the family left the village for then Malaya to trade and earn an income. There was no question of feeling self-pity or sadistic. Life was tough, and that was a fact, when the country is mismanaged by an incompetent government.
China had a turbulent modern history, since the end of the 1800's. The country suffered in the hands of the Europeans, who poisoned the population with drugs (opium). China lost badly in multiple opium wars, witnessed horrible scenes during Japanese occupation (WW2), endured a brutal civil war, and years of mismanagement during the early days of communist rule.
Countless families got displaced, and to survive was to do whatever it takes. Overseas Chinese of the early 19th century had nothing to lose. Tin mine coolees, deckhand at ports, farmers, fishermen, petty traders... Any work that puts food on the table, was worth doing. By sheer hard work and ingenuity, some would strike it big in life.
Still, the condition outside then-China was still so much better. Those who left actually had little social status in China, and were mostly from the coastal cities.
Unsurprisingly, the first destination the next day (Day 1) was to head back to village of Zhan Chu/Zheng Cuo (增厝), in Tong An (同安), nowadays redrawn and named Xiang An (翔安). It's around 2 hours drive from Xiamen city center.
I must firstly reiterate that I am a Malaysian, and there is no conflict in my identity, loyalty or allegiance for that matter. Understanding and remembering my culture and roots provide confidence and pride. We need to know who we are and where we come from. We ought to understand how far we have come, and with that, the courage to strive forward. Malaysia is a blessed country made up of different cultures and there is no doubt that this should be seen as a strength and advantage.
We have a 家谱 (Family book), though most of us don't really know a lot about it. Grandfather's father had 4 other brothers, they were call the '5-Brothers', who arrived in Tong An, Xiamen from Jinmen (金门), a small island off present day Taiwan). Till today, the 5 brick houses still stand side by side.
I try to imagine the day when grandma left her house for Malaya. Adventure, maybe, but there was no such thing as holiday when you struggle to find food those days. It was a time when a new Communist China was finding her feet under Chairman Mao. Treated as an international pariah at the height of the Cold War, China tried to rebuild, for at last, peace was restored. This owners of this house left just before the doomed Great Leap Forward policy. Great famine struck during this ill devised movement. China would close its doors afterwards, until she established democratic ties with the US and joined the WTO, few decades later.
I think it was Dad's lifelong dream to have the family visit the village together. I am sure he felt really proud and happy. A man of few words, to come a big round after a lifetime away must would still bring back great memories of the past.
I roughly calculated the years and family stories, and estimate that grandfather left the hometown in the late 40's. They were in the rubber business in downtown Melaka (present day Jonker Street). However, being a large family, and possibly due to mismanagement, they would sell the business assets and divided among themselves. Dad grew up very sure he wasn't going into business. My cousins though, are all successful businessmen.
Today, the village of Zheng Cuo remains a suburb by a main road, with a high-speed railway line dissecting nearby.
Long gone were the days when overseas Chinese (华侨) send money back to China. The China today had somehow trounce the shame and humiliation of the past century. Their rise inevitably cause uneasiness and looks set to upset the world order. But the Chinese predominantly believe in Confucius and Buddhism, and would normally stay away from confrontation, eveen being cornered.
It is an irony, that during peaceful days, everyone becomes complacent, unkind and self-centered.
Turtle Garden was fortunately saved during the Culture Revolution, as there were some politically correct paintings, words and decors. It would have been a disaster and injustice if the place was defaced by the red guards.
The Hakka people (客家人) migrated from the north of China to southern China, and as the name translates (guest-people), they are not considered as locals. Their houses are unique, and quite an engineering marvel. I suppose because their identity as outsiders, they were more careful and risk-averse.
Peaceful and unpolluted village life still actually exist!
It's been too long since we had a full family holiday. I think the last time was Taiwan trip in Dec 2015. Our parents though, had multiple holidays and outings for the past 5 years, at least 2 annual oversea trips, as we took turns to bring them out. They can be considered frequent flyers.
~~~
We departed from KL to Xiamen Gaoqi airport via an evening flight. The morning before the flight, I arrived back in KL from London. Anyway, this was not the first time I took back-to-back flights in a day, but I don't expect this kind of travel to happen in the near future.
Before the family boarded the Yo-Yo Bus (airport liner) from Johor Bahru, I was already at KLIA killing time.
Xiamen, China is the family's origin. In fact, dad was born there, only to be the last 'kid' to leave the village with grandma in the 60's. Thus, this was also a family reunion trip. Dad's elder sister (姑姑) - Aunty Hua still lives in Xiamen. She was married off by grandpa at like 20, as the 'males' of the family left the village for then Malaya to trade and earn an income. There was no question of feeling self-pity or sadistic. Life was tough, and that was a fact, when the country is mismanaged by an incompetent government.
China had a turbulent modern history, since the end of the 1800's. The country suffered in the hands of the Europeans, who poisoned the population with drugs (opium). China lost badly in multiple opium wars, witnessed horrible scenes during Japanese occupation (WW2), endured a brutal civil war, and years of mismanagement during the early days of communist rule.
Countless families got displaced, and to survive was to do whatever it takes. Overseas Chinese of the early 19th century had nothing to lose. Tin mine coolees, deckhand at ports, farmers, fishermen, petty traders... Any work that puts food on the table, was worth doing. By sheer hard work and ingenuity, some would strike it big in life.
Still, the condition outside then-China was still so much better. Those who left actually had little social status in China, and were mostly from the coastal cities.
~~~
Unsurprisingly, the first destination the next day (Day 1) was to head back to village of Zhan Chu/Zheng Cuo (增厝), in Tong An (同安), nowadays redrawn and named Xiang An (翔安). It's around 2 hours drive from Xiamen city center.
The ancestral home - 2 generations after grandfather left for Melaka
I must firstly reiterate that I am a Malaysian, and there is no conflict in my identity, loyalty or allegiance for that matter. Understanding and remembering my culture and roots provide confidence and pride. We need to know who we are and where we come from. We ought to understand how far we have come, and with that, the courage to strive forward. Malaysia is a blessed country made up of different cultures and there is no doubt that this should be seen as a strength and advantage.
The house was still standing strong after more than a century
I try to imagine the day when grandma left her house for Malaya. Adventure, maybe, but there was no such thing as holiday when you struggle to find food those days. It was a time when a new Communist China was finding her feet under Chairman Mao. Treated as an international pariah at the height of the Cold War, China tried to rebuild, for at last, peace was restored. This owners of this house left just before the doomed Great Leap Forward policy. Great famine struck during this ill devised movement. China would close its doors afterwards, until she established democratic ties with the US and joined the WTO, few decades later.
I think it was Dad's lifelong dream to have the family visit the village together. I am sure he felt really proud and happy. A man of few words, to come a big round after a lifetime away must would still bring back great memories of the past.
During my first solo trip in Feb 2012
I roughly calculated the years and family stories, and estimate that grandfather left the hometown in the late 40's. They were in the rubber business in downtown Melaka (present day Jonker Street). However, being a large family, and possibly due to mismanagement, they would sell the business assets and divided among themselves. Dad grew up very sure he wasn't going into business. My cousins though, are all successful businessmen.
The local village memorial
Today, the village of Zheng Cuo remains a suburb by a main road, with a high-speed railway line dissecting nearby.
Droves of descendants, who left the village almost a century ago, would come back, visit and donate (Tan' family's temple)
Long gone were the days when overseas Chinese (华侨) send money back to China. The China today had somehow trounce the shame and humiliation of the past century. Their rise inevitably cause uneasiness and looks set to upset the world order. But the Chinese predominantly believe in Confucius and Buddhism, and would normally stay away from confrontation, eveen being cornered.
以和为贵。Peace is the most valuable.
~~~
Dad with 天津表哥, Aunt Hua's son, a chef
Visited 鳌园 (Ao Yuan / Turtle Garden), the park and final resting place for Tan Kah Kee, famous overseas Chinese and philanthropist
Tah Kah Kee is a legend himself. Anyone from Singapore or Malaysia (primarily from Johor), regardless of race and religion are beneficiaries of him in a way or another. He was especially generous in education, and built numerous schools and universities around the region - Singapore, Johor and Xiamen. He was a famous local businessman and leader, and campaigned for anti-Japanese occupation of China. When Singapore and Malaya fell to the Japanese, he was hunted by the Japanese. Only during turbulent days, we see heroes taking leadership of the community.
Check out his Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tan_Kah_Kee
Chairman Mao wrote: 集美解放纪念碑 (Jimei's liberation monument)
Turtle Garden was fortunately saved during the Culture Revolution, as there were some politically correct paintings, words and decors. It would have been a disaster and injustice if the place was defaced by the red guards.
Your good deeds will be forever remembered
~~~
Gatherings are always coupled with a good meal. In China, people are hospitable, and live collectively. I was glad to see the culture of ordering too much food (to show respect) is stopped by the government.
I feel hungry when I look back at the photos
We had a reunion dinner at a restaurant near Aunt Hua's house at仙洞山庄
Aunt Hua had 5 children and what I understand, life was really tough in the 70's
But nowadays, all are doing well
Still, homecook food is still the best, especially when your son is a chef - Simple, healthy & confident
Eating spring-rolls / po-piah (春卷) - A very "pre-programmed" habit
It was heartening to see the improvement and development. There may still be prejudice and stereotyping, but it is the positives that we should try to learn and emulate.
~~~
From Xiamen, we booked a day trip to Hakka Tu Lou (客家土楼), which is famous throughout the land. There are several Tu Lous around, and we chose 云水谣.
There are still people staying here
The Hakka people (客家人) migrated from the north of China to southern China, and as the name translates (guest-people), they are not considered as locals. Their houses are unique, and quite an engineering marvel. I suppose because their identity as outsiders, they were more careful and risk-averse.
No wonder their houses all have a sense of security and self-defense
云水谣 was made famous by a movie decades ago
Peaceful and unpolluted village life still actually exist!
~~~
Up next, a trip to the romantic island of Gulangyu, and taking high speed train to Guangzhou. Check it out at:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/08/xiamen-family-home-coming-trip-part-2.html
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2020/08/xiamen-family-home-coming-trip-part-2.html
PS: I was pleased that everyone made this trip. Considered how COVID-19 has terrorized the world, I hope that the on-going international spat could be peacefully managed.
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