Saturday, February 20, 2021

Lisbon Part 1: The City

I had quite a mediocre Glaswegian winter in 2016. I would always remember the nights I walked back to Winton Drive after classes (French class in particular). One of my essays on Human Resource was deemed unsatisfactory by the academically inclined lecturer. My score was short of disastrous. I could only bite the bitter pill after meeting the lecturer for 'counseling' or post-mortem. It was a timely reminder to always write based on the reader. If the lecturer is someone academic (haven't have experience in the working world), you better write academically (rather than practically). 

Exams are always subjective, and I learned not to take results too seriously. 

Whilst completing my finals and submitting my essays, I had to buy an escape for myself, a (budget) trip to somewhere that had sunshine, as a reward for the hard work. Looking at the map of Europe, Portugal stood out, and was as south as the budget airline Ryan Air could reach. 

When you talk about Lisbon, it has to be the sunshine, the history/tradition and great food

Ryan Air had return flights from Glasgow Prestwick-Faro (in Portugal). I did not need much invitation. Faro is a seaside town at the Southern tip of Portugal, and was a gateway to Lisbon. 

I arrived in Faro at around 9pm, went into the city center, chilled at McDonalds, and took the 1.30am bus to Lisbon. 

Never a fan of fastfood, but McDonald's is my top choice as a backpacker - Trustable food, free Wifi and clean washrooms

Being half awake during the 4 hour bus ride, I walked out at Lisbon's Sete Rios bus station at 5.30am wanting to find my way to my hostel. Took a U-turn after finding myself the only soul on the cold and quiet street. I went back to the bus station and slept until 8am, when it was warmer and brighter. 

I would find out that Lisbon is a hilly city. Similar to Istanbul, Rome, Edinburgh, Moscow, Lisbon is also built on 7 hills! In fact, Portugal actually a country full with hills, so if you ought to have strong legs! Glad that I spent at least twice a week at the University gym (and steam room), just beside Rankine Building. 

Thankfully, I always kept my fitness, all these while

The reward was spectacular views

Stayed at Equity Point Hostel, among the hills for 4 nights

After a quick wash-up, I joined the Sandemans Walking tour at 10.30am, departing from the hostel!

The walking tour started at Luis de Camoes Square, and ended at Baixa's Agusta Arc (in downtown)

It was challenging to explore the city on foot, but extremely rewarding - Town council built elevators!

The buildings were all antiques and had withstood time

Portugal has a long and illustrious history. Once upon a time, long before the British East India Company or the Dutch VOC started their public listing exercise out of Amsterdam Stock Exchange, Portugal shared the seas and practically the world with Spain. Brazil was the crown colony, just like India to Britain. 

In a nearer past, Portugal faced turbulent times since the early 20th century, had a brutal dictatorship and a impoverished population. Europe faced many issues in the early 20th century anyway, with dictators like Hitler, Mussolini, and Franco leading the Fascist movement. Portugal, though not on the extreme end, had a dictator in Antonio Salazar, an economist by training. It was a period of high censorship and oppression, with religion

It was not until the Carnation Revolution on 25th April 1974 that Portugal finally got rid of the authoritarian state and welcomed democracy. Portugal also relinquished the colonies in Africa at the same time, so everyone was free (except Macao in China). Definitely a day to remember. 

It was in the middle of winter, and temperature was between 10-15 degrees daily

I truly enjoyed walking (and trekking) in the sun - Every corner was picturesque

At the end of the commercial boulevard of Baixa (downtown) with the famous Rua Agusta Arc facing the River Tejo (that flows into the Atlantic)

There was a great earthquake in Lisbon in 1755, combined with a tsunami and fires. The Marquis of Pombal, a reformer (having stayed in Britain and Austria) led Portugal afterwards. He rebuilt the area of Baixa, with a modern touch. It was clear that Baixa has a different design as compared to other older parts of the city. 

Portugal found a new lease of life

Europeans seems to like arcs - Can you name a capital city without an arc?

Live band during winter - Only in Lisbon

The River Tejo (River Tagus), with the 25th April Bridge


The tour guide high recommended Castelo de Sao Jorge (St. George's Castle), which is located at one of the high points of the city, which makes sense. 

An important place since the 12th century - As a royal palace, military barrack, now a museum

That's right, more hiking 

Portugal always had wars with the Moors and the Spanish (their neighbour)

When you conquer, attack others and make enemies, you better have some good defense

I would jump at any chance to hike to high ground - A specular view is always guaranteed

Nowadays, the castle is home to different guests

Visiting Lisbon during low season (winter) has its pluses - It is quieter, cooler (12 degrees) and calmer


A new addition to the Castle though, is the camera obscura in one of the towers. Installed by a UK company in 1998, you are able to see the city from above, using the lens, sunlight and reflection.

Watching sunset on the River Tejo

Interesting stuff

I spent almost 2 hours in the castle, going thru galleries, reading the signs and admiring the artifacts. 

Sunset (during winter) was at 5.30pm, and it was a truly amazing experience

The hue during sunset gave the horizon dreamy feel

As the temperature dropped towards single digit, it was time to get dinner and call it a day. 

Notice the Christmas tree at the Baixa, by the River Tejo

I was truly mesmerized by Lisbon. Looking back, I was surprised of the high number of photographs I took. I don't know if it was the sun, but I forgot that I just had 3 hours of sleep the night before. 

The fact that I arrived from the cold winter of Scotland made the day really special

The the best part is, the next few days would be even better!

Continue reading Part 2, where I visit the town of Sintra, and the westernmost point of continental Europe:

 

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