Saturday, November 12, 2022

Road Trip in Perak, Malaysia

For the longest time, I wanted to visit the towns of the Malaysian state of Perak, for the food and some doses of history. I have met many friends from Perak, especially during university days. Perak was definitely a lifelong target, and we planned a 4D3N road trip. We spent a night in Teluk Intan, Taiping and Ipoh respectively. It was perfect intervals.  

A 450km round trip (RM 50 in petrol)

We flew into Ipoh from Johor Bahru with AirAsia last Saturday morning. Flight ticket was RM 230 return, which was rather affordable (having purchased it mid-August). It was my first AirAsia flight for a long long time. The flight was on time, to my surprise. In fact, the return flight from Ipoh to Johor Bahru last Tuesday afternoon departed 20 minutes earlier! 

Ipoh's airport, with mountains on the horizon. 

We rented the smallest available car, for RM120/day from We Rich Car Rental. Other companies cost twice.

Teluk Intan is 90km southeast of Ipoh. It was a pleasant 1.5-hour drive from the airport. It was a chance to catch up with some old friends, by chatting a bit about the local food. My long time friend Darren is from Langkap, and studied his Form 6 in Teluk Intan. My classmate Yeesiong was a local, while my mentor Mr. Chow was also familiar. They both recommended Hawayi, which was just beside our hotel - Anson Hotel.

Mee rebus, laksa and cendol

A bit overkill, but I think it provides accountability and responsibility

The missus, with the 'Leaning Tower' of Teluk Intan (Menara Condong)

Due to sedimentation, the once upright tower to store water (you could still spot the stainless steel water tank and valves inside) started slanting and tilt to the southwest direction. Thankfully, no water is stored inside, and it is now only a tourist attraction.

Perak river - Had its glory days in the late 19th century

Formally known as Teluk Anson, after a British Resident, this was a laidback and sleepy town. Most shops close by 8pm. But people here start their day early. 



My classmate Joylee introduced this bakut teh and steam fish at Yi Pin Xiang

We had only one objective visiting Teluk Intan - to try the famous chee chiong fun. No shops were open the day before, and the famous Liew Kee would only open at 11am. 

A long queue by 11am - They don't even have dine-in service or drinks

While queuing, a local told us that Liew Kee (Ah Lek) and the old shop on Jalan Hill were different. They are brothers, but are now competitors. Liew Kee (Ah Lek) was the real deal according to the local aunty who bought like 8 packets and was rushing back to Kuala Lumpur. The Jalan Hill old shop, beside Min Kee didn't even have a signboard, but you could see people entering and leaving the side door. Min Kee, was shut for the past 2 days. 

Liew Kee (Ah Lek) was closed the day before, because it was someone's wedding. The people in these towns definitely know the importance of work-life balance. 

We tried both, but it seems like the old shop on Jalan Hill, beside Min Kee was far better and superior. 

Produce of the old shop on Jalan Hill (left) and Liew Kee (Ah Lek) (right)

We left for Taiping around noon, passing by the town of Sitiawan. My roommate during university days Chuen Hang was from this place. I still remember staying over at his parent's place, trying his mom's red wine fuzhou mee-sua, while he brought me drifting in his automatic Proton Saga at some car park. I am still intrigue on how he did it till this day.

It's a shame that some really close and good friends in the yesteryears lose touch. But I am still grateful to have grew up with them.  

Taiping is 2.5 hours from Teluk Intan. My colleague Swarna is a local, and she was able to recommend some nice food. She correctly pointed out that Taiping is the wettest town in the Peninsular. She was right. We didn't see the sun.

Taiping was the former capital of Perak - Wide roads, tidy shops and colonial architectures (election fever in town)

Taiping lake - huge and great for evening walks

Searching for dinner again, was challenging. Food outlets are either sold out or closed. 

Claypot chicken rice - I like the half-boiled egg combination

On the third day, we left Taiping for Ipoh, passing by the royal town of Kuala Kangsar. 

The first rubber tree in Malaya (since 1876)

Rubber was key to the industrial revolution in Britain. It was used to make tires for transportation. Together with tin-mining, it made Malaya and then Malaysia wealthy. Perak had both so this was a wealthy state pre-independence in 1957.   

The story of how rubber came to Malaya is interesting

The other notable site is Victoria Bridge, used to transport rubber and tins to Ipoh, across the Perak River. 

Completed in 1900 - That's 122 years old!

The forgotten bridge was actually in use till 2002

There was also an important mosque of the royal family - 3 buildings of different era

The last stop was Ipoh, the capital of Perak. 

Thean Chun (天津茶室) chicken beansprout hor-fun - Recommended by Mr. Chow

Definitely a good idea to burn some calories at Perak Cave

I have been to Ipoh during university days, a decade ago, and many of my best friends are from here - Boon Heng and Ah Sum to name a few. I had no problems getting recommendations. 

It definitely has got more Buddha statues nowadays

Health and peace for everyone

Had to try Chang Jiang White Coffee - Strongly recommended by Mr. Chow

For a non-coffee enthusiast, it was really good

Had a healthier dinner of dosai and chapati, which was also more economical

We could all tell that it was not the school holidays or tourist season, as we could still find seats. The crowd was average. During festivals or holidays, there will be swamps of people returning from the big cities like Kuala Lumpur and Singapore, and the smallest towns in Perak would be buzzing and jammed up. 

Dim sum for breakfast at Ming Court - It was great to find the seats are available, and we could eat in peace 

No choice but to skip morning exercise - How often does a cave need maintenance?

So we proceed to lunch.

No, you won't find better selections

This cost about RM20 (USD5), but it was really good. Speaking about inflation!

There is no doubt that Ipoh has one the best food in Malaysia. They say Penang is the best, but I will need to do another trip there. 

It was a timely getaway. I have always thought that Malaysia has a rich variety of food, cultures and places to visit. 

View from the top of 'Perak Cave' - Summing up this road trip

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