Travelling America: Niagara Falls

I cut short my stay in NYC and took the 10.20am train from NY Penn station. I bid farewell to my pal CL and took the 9-hour train-ride up north. 

Check out the last post at:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2019/05/travelling-america-new-york-city-part-2.html

Thankfully Amtrak trains were comfortable. I had my laptop, and was able to do some work, reading, sleep, eat my packed lunch (with fruits) and still I was still in New York State.  

Niagara Falls is in New York State

Well, there are 2 sides of Niagara Falls - One in USA (New York state) and one on the Canadian side (Ontario).

How do people do a day trip from NYC to Niagara Falls remains a myth to me. I booked 2 nights in a promising-looking hostel from booking.com. In fact, it was the cheapest I could find.

When I finally arrive after 9 hours, it was almost dark. From Google Map, it showed a distance of 25 minutes walk from the train station to my hostel, so I imagined it would be a serene stroll in what was a famous town.

Good start

But the longer I walked, the more dire it got. Niagara Falls, New York (state) seems to have a glorious past, but it did look slightly rundown. Maybe it was still winter, and low season for tourism.

I would later learn that this city's population dropped almost half since the heady heights of the 70s

The eerie solo-walk bordered serene and fright. I was glad that I stood at 6 feet. It was too still and too quiet.

After checking-in with the night sky still clear, I decided to take stroll into town and get some food. Again, it was very quiet, with some occasional cars passing-by. 

Nope, the background is Ontario in Canada, across the river (mostly casinos)

The weather forecast for the next day was not inspiring... There would be rain / snow.

Things that I learned from football (and Liverpool Football Club)

When Liverpool beat Barcelona last month 4-0 at Anfield, over-turning a 3-0 first leg defeat, it was a terrific week for world football or any neutral football fans.

If you do not know what happened, just remember that nothing is impossible in life, and that we should never give up.

Ever since my cousin WH showed me a red 'Owen #10' jersey from his wardrobe, I sub-consciously supported the team. The first Liverpool team I watched had Gerard Houllier as manager, with players such as Michael Owen, Robbie Fowler, Emile Heskey, Sander Westerveld, Patrick Berger, Jamie Carragher, Sammi Hyypia, a young Steven Gerard and etc. It was the days where you could just watch EPL on our normal TV stations without paying big bucks for private cable TV.

It must be way back in 2000...

Fast forward to 2016, I was lucky enough to go to the UK for my postgraduate studies.

I worked part-time to finance my past-time

Kak R (Grand Master) would drive to Anfield from Glasgow, and back after matches, while I tag along (It's 4-hour per way journey!) 

I do at times reflect and try to take a leaf out of the beautiful game (maybe just to self-motivate or self-console). Here are the top 8 things I've learned thus far:

#1. English

It's true. To be able to understand every word and term the football commentators speak requires practice and ability. The next level is to differentiate and understand different accent from different countries / regions of the English speaking word. Scottish accent takes time to get used to (but I really like it), while Scouse is difficult to understand, and Geordie accent from the east coast is almost...

#2. Mutual Respect and team ethics

Football is a team sport, and there is always no 'I' in a 'TEAM'. You occasionally find superstars like Messi and Ronaldo, but the football field is a bit too big when compared with a basketball court. A chain is as strong as the weakest link.

In life, I strongly believe in mutual respect, and staying humble. We do at times see teammates fighting each other, even at a level like the EPL - (Was it Newcastle or West Ham). This is definitely a lesson of what not to do.

You also need to respect your opponents. In this modern digital edge, where everything you do get captured on camera, it is always safer to follow the rules and 'not play dirty' in life. Sergio Ramos wrestled Mo Salah to the ground and dislocate Salah's shoulder in last year's final, and I think the whole world knows it.

Travelling America: New York City Part 2

Started Day 2 in NYC with a pleasant stroll in Central Park, the huge green lung in the middle of Manhattan. It's a fantastic decision to gazette this green space in the middle of NYC. I am sure it provided a much getaway for the stressful city life. 

Check out NYC Part 1 in:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2019/05/traveling-america-new-york-city-part-1.html

Ice-skating in the midst of sky-scrappers

It's always to gazette land as nature reserve

Actually played a game of chess at the Chess Room with an elderly man. He looked really lonely and was waiting for a next challenger. Needless to say, I was well-beaten, having last touch chess maybe a decade ago.

Apparently, NYC has the biggest Chinatown outside China. It was indeed a happening and bustling part of town.

Staircase are located outside of the building - So you can't go upstairs if it's raining?

Chinese chess played everywhere in every Chinatown in the US

Everyone's favourite

Craving for some more familiar food, we searched high and low for something more comforting, rather than burgers, fries, pizzas and sandwiches.

Always a safe bet

Chinatown NYC is just beside 'Little Italy'. Nothing much in 'Little Italy' though.

After lunch, a quick head to downtown saw us reach 5th Avenue, famous for the high-rise and shopping malls. We should pay the most powerful man (may not be the most popular) on earth some homage. Everyone knows who the current President is. We checked out his 'nest'.

Traveling America: New York City Part 1

Before we start, I feel the urge to explain the difference between New York and New York City (NYC). New York is a state, with a land area of 141,000 km square, or basically 4 times the land area of Malaysia (that includes Peninsular and Borneo if you are going to ask), at 330,000 km square. Albany is the capital of New York State, while NYC is the biggest city in New York state (and the whole world I believe). 'New' York, is basically named after the English Roman town of York. 

From Boston, I took the Amtrak train to New York City. A 1-way ticket cost around $49, while a bus ticket will cost half the price. It depends on what you like. I was able to do some work on the train, with free Wi-fi and proper table/chair. 

We stayed in a Airbnb in Queens, Long Island. The NYC Subway was convenient, and runs for 24 hours, so it was a good choice staying away from Manhattan. NYC was actually founded by the Dutch, and was initially named 'New Netherlands', before being transferred to the English, and renamed New York.

5th Avenue

The first stops in NYC, on a good spring day, would be the Statue of Liberty. Do go early to beat the queue. From Battery Park (southern tip of Manhattan), you could take a ferry to Liberty Island.

Probably the most well-known statue on earth

The Statue of Liberty was a present from the French to the US, in celebrating the abolition of slavery and the victory of the Union in the Civil War (or some would argue, to celebrate more than a century of independence from the British).

The Statue would welcome migrants arriving in America from Europe

Liberty wasn't 'green' to start with, but after years of oxidation of bronze, she became 'green'

Traveling America: Harvard and MIT

Previously, I completed IET's events and eating lobsters in downtown Boston:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2019/04/traveling-america-boston-city.html

Harvard University is always somewhere at the top of any global university rank list. I for one though, never believed in university rankings. Old universities, with proud traditions, long history and well-known alumni are bound to be 'ranked' better than newer ones. I feel it's more of a publicity stunt. But I suppose some healthy competition is always welcomed. 

Still, it was quite fascinating to visit Harvard University, most probably the best in the world. 

Legendary Harvard Yard

Harvard University's campus is made up of independent buildings with various styles and design.

The Museum of Natural History

We've got a common friend, also from the IET who is currently studying MBA at Harvard Business School - LX. LX was really kind to reserve seats from the Professor, for us to sit-in. It was an amazing experience!

Back to school

 Everything at Harvard is posh, artistic and ooze class.

Spangley foodcourt - Felt like a 5-star hotel restaurant

We attended a class on Entrepreneurship Management. For 1.5 hours, everyone was discussing on a Case Study - Eastern Bank's evolution. It was on how CEO Bob Rivers' decision to turn a traditional community bank into a modern and savvy bank. The case study circled around the threat of technology disruption. This is a common challenge faced by mature companies. Because of technology-driven disruption, the lifespan of companies has decreased dramatically. 90% of companies in the S&P 500 were replaced in the past 50 years, and 50% of them which were not, will disappear in the next decade or decade and a half. 

How should a CEO, or company top management team address the challenge of technology disruption and innovation? How would you maintain (or even cut) cost, increase productivity, and most importantly keep the Board (and customers) happy? How about long term sustainability and growth? Are you willing to throw in some investment to 'test the waters' and gain some learnings? I think the divisive factor is the long-term and short-term goals of an organization. How many organizations are willing to forego short-term goals for longer-term ones? I guess ultimately, the priority is still to survive. Everyone's looking at instant success (and reward).

Traveling America: Boston

Courtesy of the IET, we were in Boston, MA. We had a meeting and attended IET PATW New England Network Finals at Northeastern University. It was a fantastic outing, having met members and students from the America. The difference in views and lifestyle was apparent. Hopefully, with a clearer view of IET Americas, we could devise a YP strategy and better support CC-Americas.

Northeastern University

If you are interested in science, engineering and technology, please like us on our Facebook page. We are constantly looking for volunteers, engineers and students to join our fold. 

~~~

I have never been to America, and to be honest, America was never on my bucket list. It has always been somewhere faraway. Indeed, the flight was 24 hours, with a 1.5 hour transit in Doha. My first impression of Boston was, 'Wow, it feels like England, and the chilly weather feels the same too'.

Wasn't the best first impression - Why do people need guns?

I am aware that the East coast and West Coast, North and South are vastly different. US is such a huge country.

It was end of March, and the temperature was still hovering below 8 degrees Celsius.

View of the Charles Rive on Day-1 dawn (Snowed throughout the night)

Thankfully, the next day was beautiful (but I still needed my bulky Scottish winter jacket)

Boston is one of the earliest English settlements and oldest cities in the US. Wikipedia gives a good history lesson.

After our conference, we explored the city. It was a nice day, but the temperature was still below 5 degrees. One of the must-dos in Boston is the Freedom Trail. Apparently, Boston was where the American Revolution began. The olden days are always associated with wars and batters.

This well-designed 4km 'trail' is marked by red bricks or red lines. It includes all important sites, buildings and monuments. This is actually a brilliant idea, and helps tourists navigate (and don't require too much homework). Of course, you'll need strong legs to complete the trail.

The 'trail' map

Everest Base Camp - Insurance Selection for Malaysians

Malaysia is a beautiful country. We have mountains, rivers, reserved forest, islands, seas... It's a heaven for nature-loving people and adventurers... This encourage and nurtured generations of hikers, mountaineers and outdoor enthusiast.    

Everest Base Camp, though not the toughest, still represents the holy grail for many amateur hikers (at least for me). What could possibly beat the view of the highest point on earth - Mount Everest. In fact, I consider standing 3000m below the summit a lifelong achievement.  

Sunrise view of Everest (8848m - left) and Nuptse (7879m - right) peaks from Kala Patthar (5545m), 22 May 2018.

Insurance is key, especially when you'll heading to the Himalayas. EBC is at an altitude of 5400m, while the view point Kalapattar is at 5550m. At these altitude, anything can happen. Unfortunately, the choices of insurance (Malaysia) is limited. I took time to email all the below insurers to find out the best choice. 

In 2013, my friends and I attempted Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) via Phokara. We took AIG Travel Guard back then, as it gave unlimited altitude coverage. However, fast forward to 2018, the maximum coverage is at 4000m. In other words, anything happens beyond 4000m, you are on your own. An 18-day coverage cost around RM 135.00. 

ABC is at 4130m, and should still be fine. However, for EBC, you'll spend half your time trekking above 4000m. It wasn't very suitable. 

Zurich TravelPac costs almost the same, but would not cover hiking at all. 

Worldnomads is a Dutch insurer, who could cover everything you need for EBC hike. But it costs a whopping USD 112 for a Malaysian Resident. I felt it was a bit expensive. Prior experience to ABC showed that I was fine at the altitude of 4130m, I felt confident. 

AXA Affin, which I once bought for my 2-week backpack in Europe, would not cover any injuries or issues related to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). However, they can provide emergency evacuation at any altitude, as long as it is not related to AMS. In other words, should you suffer some life threatening injury not related to AMS, at say 5500m, you should be covered by AXA. It cost RM 112 for 18 days, with maximum claim up to RM300,000. 

I went for AXA Affin, and bought the policy online. Very simple steps. 

I would later claim RM 2200 from AXA Affin due to travel delays. Payment was done online into my bank account. It is important to keep all receipts, flight itinerary, letters indicating delays for insurance claim. 

So far, AXA Affin (https://digital.axa.com.my/travel-insurance-malaysia/) has proved to be a reliable insurer for all my travel insurance needs.

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 13: Showdown with Travel Agent

Previously:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2019/02/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-12.html


27 May 2018, Sunday, Kathmandu

Arriving at 4.15am, after a gruesome 13 hour jeep ride, I was glad to see the hotel. The first thing everyone needed was a shower! The hot shower was really good.

In additional, it took me 20 minutes to get my face (2 weeks of beard) cleaned and shaved...

When I got down to the lobby at 5.30am, I saw our Travel Agent Mr. Jar. along with a few of my teammates, in some serious discussion. The mood wasn't wonderful. Ryan, Pat, Neil and Praks were genuine speakers, and it wasn't without validity. Jar was actually at the hotel to collect USD200 for the helicopter ride for Day 1 (Kathmandu to Lukla). They quickly shot him down and listed down our displeasure for the entire trip:

1. Dave and Weeser were left to hike Kala Patthar alone without any guides (Henry and Din). Even it's at 4am, there were no reasons for Henry/Din to not show up. Dave and Weeser tagged along other teams/guides. Coming to think of it, it was quite risky and dangerous.  
2. Potters ditched our bags on the last day (not being happy with the amount of tips).
3. The team was stranded in Phaplu despite being promised a flight from Phaplu to Kathmandu. The team had to source our own jeep back to the capital (for 13 hours). 

All the above were valid arguments, and Ryan pushed for compensation - USD 300 reimbursement or Full refund (That was negotiation skills!). Reviews will be posted online for the awful services. Jar was speechless. Our points were valid.

Having traveled with his company for Annapurna Base Canp hike 5 years ago, and being the only one in the group who had approach the company directly, Jar looked to me for support. I couldn't, as I was quite disappointed with the services this time round. All along till the end of the trip, I had always tried to be as neutral and supportive of the company/guides as possible. I gave my views, and a fair account of everything. The company simply did not deliver.

Feeling the wind, Jar turned the table, offering to wave USD200 for the helicopter on Day 1, and compensation of USD150 cash. I guess everyone wanted to come to an agreement and move on. We accepted the offer.

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 12: Lukla - Phaplo - Kathmandu (A 20 Hour Journey)

Previously:
https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/11/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-11.html

26 May 2018, Saturday, Lukla - Phaplu - Kathmandu

We all learned about a place call mysterious place known as "Pablo" yesterday, being an alternative of flying from Lukla - Kathmandu. "Pablo", or rather Phaplu is located 15 minutes helicopter ride away from Lukla. It is located at an elevation of 7918 ft (2413m) above sea level.

It turned out to be the only option we had.

A 'documentary' describing the situation at Lukla

After anxiously waiting the whole morning, we were glad to leave Lukla at 11.45am, after paying USD200/pax at the helipad, which acts as a top-up for our canceled flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. We bid farewell to our guides Henry and Din. I passed them dollars, so did the a few of my teammates, and wished them well.

Glad but a bit sad to leave

When you spend almost 2 weeks with a group of people in a harsh environment, you more or less become friends. Rumors said that Phaplu Airport has better weather / visibility, and that a Tara Air flight would then take us from Phaplu to Kathmandu. IF there are no flights from Phaplu to Kathmandu, a jeep could take us to Kathmandu in 9 hours. Simple enough solution isn't it?

See you again Lukla - You've been the best adventure in my life

After a scenic 15 minute chopper ride, we landed in Phaplu Airport, except that it's not really an airport. It was a 100m air strip.

The chopper ride was smooth, and the pilot gave us a perfect landing 

From Johor to Everest Base Camp: Day 11: Stranded in Lukla

Hot on the heels from:

https://weesertan.blogspot.com/2018/10/from-johor-to-everest-base-camp-day-10.html

25 May 2018, Friday, Lukla

Finally, the day to head back to Kathmandu. I woke up a quite edgy, hoping for a clear sky, so that our flight back to Kathmandu would be as scheduled. 

I wouldn't say that I eagerly wanted to get out of the Himalayas. I just had one of the best 10-days of my life. 

But I wanted to have another shower, which I didn't have for 2 days (since Namche Bazaar). The lodge at Lukla didn't have hot water, citing the lack of sunshine for the Solar panels...

The day started really well. Glorious sunshine, clear blue sky and we had a fantastic view glancing out of the hostel window. We were on standby mode at 7am!

What a morning!

CCTV in the hostel to have real-time monitoring of the Lukla Airport runway

No more hard-boiled eggs and toasts - There's no more hiking left, so it's time for some pancake with honey and jam

We were told that we are on the third out-going Tara Air flight. We kept our fingers crossed. We are required to gather at the airport (which looked more like a bus station) when the second flight comes in. 

In anything you do, never lose hope

However, in true fuzzy Nepali standards, Henry suddenly told us that we were on the 6th flight out. Alas, we were still hopeful.

On a slightly different note, we learn that our porters had ditched us, apparently not being happy with the tips they received the previous night. According to Henry, the 'market rate' was USD 60 for the whole trek. Our own research showed that it's about USD 40-60. I have no qualms tipping the porters this amount. There were 4 porters, each carrying 2 x 10 kg for the 8 of us in the team. So the 8 of us put our tips together, and handed it to head porter the night before. We then had a pleasant dinner with the porters. So, I was quite disappointed learning that porters didn't show up as promised.

To my dismay, I would later discover that a team member chose not to tip anything. Our total tip amount would be unexpectedly lower. Again, tipping is a culture, and everyone has their own right to decide. I felt annoyed knowing how people could spend on 'luxurious items' such as unlimited cans of Pringles, coke, cakes, a USD 200 half-day horse-ride...

Yet, refuse to acknowledge the work of the porters, who enabled him to 'walk' his way up empty handed (with a mere day-pack of 2 Litters of water). It was a shame. It wasn't a lot of money to us, and we could easily earn it again. However, any amount is significant income to the porters, who are still mostly teenagers making an honest living. I doubt most of my team members adhered to the 10kg backpack rule like I did. So the porters worked really hard, and were always on time in their collection and delivery.

Needless to say, our guide (performed average, at most) and assistant guide would get nothing too from some of my teammates, supposedly from a 'first world' country.

I was disgusted.